Need Advise

[jaschippy]

hey I'm buying a r34 gtr it's stock and i want to upgrade the turbo's injectors cams and computer just wondering if anyone knows where i can get a good kit from. Thanks

[Brockas]

Do a search here for turbo upgrades (My 2530s seem to go really well on the Rb26, but are discontinued with something else in its place) in the performance upgrade section.

Common misconception.

HKS 2530's are not discontinued, you can still buy them new from any HKS dealer, including www.greenline.jp

HKS 2540's are discontinued, but IMO were never a good turbo anyways.

[Topaz]

Nismo all the way u ntil you find something that they don't make.

[MLCrisis]

Hi. All of MattyP's advice is spot on. I would suggest you see what the car is like when you get it (I assume you are importing it and have not driven it yet). I have an R34 GTR V Spec II, which was stock when I got it. I put a Nismo R Tune intake duct on it and I assume it had the restrictor taken out of the boost line, and it had the standard ECU. I also had fitted an APEXi 3.5 inch exhaust with APEXi front pipe and standard cat. It ran max boost of about 1 bar and produced 290 hp at the wheels in this guise.

I then put Apexi Power FC, Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC (with 1.2 bar high and 0.8 bar low boost), plus Apexi Power Intake pods system.

And that was all - result is 370 hp at the wheels. I am told that I could get another 30-40 hp if I removed the last restriction in the exhaust (which is probably the muffler, which is a quiet type). But I am happy as it is.

My point is that this cost me less than $4k, including tuning. What are you hoping to achieve with the other $11k you are looking to spend? If you are clear on that, go for it. But you may be able to achieve what you want without the expensive mods.

Just a thought.

Cheers.

[jaschippy]

Im not sure if im going to import one yet. how much did u import your v spec 2 for? Im not sure if i should buy one with low km and do it up myself or get one already worked. I've got a budget of around 60k maybe 70 k pushing it.

[jaschippy]

i want to be making at least 450 atwhp so ill need a new pair of turbo's. how much pwr can a stock motor handle reliably

[32vspecII]

this would be a nice setup assuming you have basic intake and exhaust mods already

garrett gt2860-5 x 2

sard 700cc injectors - drop in replacements

nismo fuel pump

power fc djetro

ebc of your choice (recommend blitz)

you could also add cams and cam gears to push more out of the gt2860-5s if you wanted a bit more . you could go bigger turbos obviously but I prefer response . this would be a pretty quick gtr on the street/circuit

stock motor is is good for 350rwkw , a bit more if your daring

also theres a million of these threads in forced induction section

Edited November 26, 2007 by 32vspecII

[MLCrisis]

i want to be making at least 450 atwhp so ill need a new pair of turbo's. how much pwr can a stock motor handle reliably

Hi again. The stock motor and all of its parts was built by the factory for 500hp, apparently (HPI Magazine and others say so). So 32VSpecII is on the money with power at the wheels. As he says, have a search through the Forced Induction threads to get more info. Also, get hold of the most recent High Performance Imports Magazine Special Edition on the GTR (it was about four issues back). They had an article on stepwise mods to a typical GTR and dealt with R34 specifics, not just RB26DETT generalisations. The R34 engine has a few, but worthwhile, improvements - such as steel turbines, rather than laminated ceramic. Hence they are good for up to about 1.4 to 1.5 bar boost (20 to 22 psi in God's units).

With that kind of boost level and other straightforward mods, you can get 400+ hp out of an R34 GTR (there are a couple of R34 GTRs in Perth, I am told, that have achieved around 430 - 450 hp atw with standard turbos and internals). HPI Magazine argue that unless you are going for high power numbers, cams are a waste of money for a street driven car. Cam gears do little other than look pretty - although with some set-ups they can give you more mid-range, but it is tweaking around the edges. With your budget, you want bang for your buck.

Get a good base car and work from there. There are a number of GTRs already in Oz (check carsales.com.au, for example), some of which look OK, that already have bits on them, but I would be cautious of some of the vendors over East with them. I imported my car through Imports 101. It cost about $74k landed and complied, registered, etc. (Imports 101 have a calculator on their website to show you the cost breakdown involved in importing a car.)

All of this is my own bias and quasi-, half-learned stuff from reading the magazines and these forums. So read up some more and your ideas will begin to gel. Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Edited November 27, 2007 by MLCrisis

[jaschippy]

thanks for the info mate. I've been looking at gtr's from over east what should i be cautious about ? When did u import your car and what spec gtr did u get for 75 k?

cheers jas

Hi again. The stock motor and all of its parts was built by the factory for 500hp, apparently (HPI Magazine and others say so). So 32VSpecII is on the money with power at the wheels. As he says, have a search through the Forced Induction threads to get more info. Also, get hold of the most recent High Performance Imports Magazine Special Edition on the GTR (it was about four issues back). They had an article on stepwise mods to a typical GTR and dealt with R34 specifics, not just RB26DETT generalisations. The R34 engine has a few, but worthwhile, improvements - such as steel turbines, rather than laminated ceramic. Hence they are good for up to about 1.4 to 1.5 bar boost (20 to 22 psi in God's units).

With that kind of boost level and other straightforward mods, you can get 400+ hp out of an R34 GTR (there are a couple of R34 GTRs in Perth, I am told, that have achieved around 430 - 450 hp atw with standard turbos and internals). HPI Magazine argue that unless you are going for high power numbers, cams are a waste of money for a street driven car. Cam gears do little other than look pretty - although with some set-ups they can give you more mid-range, but it is tweaking around the edges. With your budget, you want bang for your buck.

Get a good base car and work from there. There are a number of GTRs already in Oz (check carsales.com.au, for example), some of which look OK, that already have bits on them, but I would be cautious of some of the vendors over East with them. I imported my car through Imports 101. It cost about $74k landed and complied, registered, etc. (Imports 101 have a calculator on their website to show you the cost breakdown involved in importing a car.)

All of this is my own bias and quasi-, half-learned stuff from reading the magazines and these forums. So read up some more and your ideas will begin to gel. Hope this helps.

Cheers.

[MLCrisis]

thanks for the info mate. I've been looking at gtr's from over east what should i be cautious about ? When did u import your car and what spec gtr did u get for 75 k?

cheers jas

Hi again. My car is a 2001 R34 GTR V Spec II. It was stock when I got it, with genuine 40,000 km. I imported it earlier this year through Imports 101 and took delivery in June.

If you look on the Nengun website, under members cars, you can see pics and details as it is now.

Regarding some of the cars on offer over East, it is basically the same as when buying any secondhand car. Some of them are probably genuine people just selling their car. Some of them are undoubtedly backyard dealers who have imported the car from Japan, thrown a few things on it, wound the clock back, tarted up the paintwork, thrown away the auction sheet and selling it as a Grade 4.5 car, when it was probably Grade 3 or worse. There are plenty of stories out there about cars being sold with V Spec badges or claims they are 2001 cars, when they are nothing of the sort. These may be urban myths, but the imports market still offers more scope for unscrupulous people to make a killing than any other type of car dealing.

Or maybe I am just suspicious and overly cautious. But why not, when you are spending that sort of money, they probably ARE all out to get you!

Cheers.

[jaschippy]

Hi mate your making me paranoid lol. So how can i find out if the car is genuine or not, is there a place i can call to check up on the car. Im looking to buy the tommy kiara gtr from nsw im pretty sure thats genuine but the guy's not sure if he's selling the car, so i might end up looking at some other gtr.

Hi again. My car is a 2001 R34 GTR V Spec II. It was stock when I got it, with genuine 40,000 km. I imported it earlier this year through Imports 101 and took delivery in June.

If you look on the Nengun website, under members cars, you can see pics and details as it is now.

Regarding some of the cars on offer over East, it is basically the same as when buying any secondhand car. Some of them are probably genuine people just selling their car. Some of them are undoubtedly backyard dealers who have imported the car from Japan, thrown a few things on it, wound the clock back, tarted up the paintwork, thrown away the auction sheet and selling it as a Grade 4.5 car, when it was probably Grade 3 or worse. There are plenty of stories out there about cars being sold with V Spec badges or claims they are 2001 cars, when they are nothing of the sort. These may be urban myths, but the imports market still offers more scope for unscrupulous people to make a killing than any other type of car dealing.

Or maybe I am just suspicious and overly cautious. But why not, when you are spending that sort of money, they probably ARE all out to get you!

Cheers.

[Topaz]

Hi again. My car is a 2001 R34 GTR V Spec II. It was stock when I got it, with genuine 40,000 km.

Actually I changed my mind. LEAVE IT AS IT IS.

[MLCrisis]

Actually I changed my mind. LEAVE IT AS IT IS.

Ah yeah, but a few simple mods are half the fun! You're right though - the R34 V S Spec II is a fantastic car to start with.

But would you really leave it as it is?

Jaschippy, there is no easy answer. Either find out as much as you can yourself, or find someone who knows and get them to check it. If all else fails, get an RAC check to at least get the basics.

Cheers.