Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok my R32 recently started handling different, It seems to bounce alot after hitting a bump and makes driving it a pain. I am thinking it is the rear shocks would anybody else have any idea if this is the issue?

Also if it is the rear shocks I was looking at upgrading coilovers to Tein Super Street. The car doesn't see the track at all but I plan on doing some track days in the future so seeing as though it is mainly a road car I was wondering if people could give me some opinions on the Super Street and the kind of Spring Rating I would need for our crappy roads. Also if you have some better idea's on coilovers for around the same price could you please post them up.

Thank You.

Adz

Ok my R32 recently started handling different, It seems to bounce alot after hitting a bump and makes driving it a pain. I am thinking it is the rear shocks would anybody else have any idea if this is the issue?

Also if it is the rear shocks I was looking at upgrading coilovers to Tein Super Street. The car doesn't see the track at all but I plan on doing some track days in the future so seeing as though it is mainly a road car I was wondering if people could give me some opinions on the Super Street and the kind of Spring Rating I would need for our crappy roads. Also if you have some better idea's on coilovers for around the same price could you please post them up.

Thank You.

Adz

Hi Adz,

For coilover options, please see below and Group Buy threads

As for the issue, which is more of what I am interested in, what sort of sound accomanies it? If none, and the rear feels overall like the shocks are dead, then they probably are dead. Realistically, you can pop a wheel off and have a look around and see what look out of place...otherwise, hard to guess without more feedback.

Matt

There is no sound with it, Basically you hit a bump (even the slightest one) and car keeps bouncing, I dunno if this is the right way to explain it but almost feels like body roll with it bouncing all over the place. If you bounce the car while parked (handbrake off and no brakes on) from say the left hand rear it will bounce left and right a few times. Where as bouncing on just the front it seems to just bounce straight back into place evenly.

I hoped that helped out a little.

Also thank you for your advice.

Ahh sorry didn't reliese it was you posting sydneykid. You run that group by right? Could you pm me a price for a R32 kit. I shouldn't need all the extra stuff you do just a basic kit that you would recommand.

Edited by Triptych

Off that description it is my opinion that the shocks are destroyed, and are not slowing the rebound of the springs - so the springs are just bouncing side to side off one another.

I'll try to PM you today, if not, PM me

once again thank you for your advice I will have a few questions for you in regards to the pack but I will wait till I raise the money. I am not driving the car since this issue has come up not only because I feel unsafe everytime I hit a bump but it may end up being a danger to other drivers. I believe in better safe then sorry :D

I will PM you with a few of my questions about your kit shortly. I already have had my front suspension bushes replaces and it is being a trial car for a new bush from All About Steering and Suspension up here in QLD. I must admit the couple of weeks I had with the car with the new bushes in it was great with handling but now that it seems the shocks have gone lets just say feels like I should hydrolics rigged up :)

Yeah I rang autobarn today for a price on some cheapies to get me around for the next month or two and the KYB's were $120each for the rear and $150 each for the fronts. Might see if repco stock them so I can make my brother buy them at trade price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...