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I'm currently at 268rwkw on 15psi with my stock airbox and umm still running with a stock paper filter. (but with a 100mm cai in to its base).

Next time I'm on the dyno and pushing 300rwkw+ I'll lift the lid off and see if there's any difference.

I doubt it personally primarily due to the 100mm cai i have carved in to the bottom of the box.

Hi Cubes,

I'd recommend getting a k&n flat panel filter instead of the paper one... I've run both and did notice a difference between them - it was enough to hit the over boost fuel cut (cuts fuel when you have pfc boost control set lower than boost being made) with the only change being from my new paper filter to the k&n flat panel filter.

Basically it was dyno day and I swapped the air filter and hit the fuel cut whereaas prior to that it never did. I did do a compare on the dyno - filter and no filter and absolutely NO difference at 254rwkw with the airbox lid off as well.

Cheers

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No - didn't do a dyno comparison between the two air filters BUT car made more boost with the K&N flat panel than the paper filter as it hit the fuel cut.

You could also hear the turbo more - not going by that though just the FUEL CUT. If you're making more boost then more efficiency therefore more power. I think the flat panel is a worthwhile upgrade and you still retain the stock airbox.

What GTST is trying to say is, if there was to be any difference in power it would be without the air filter as there is no restriction.

Doesn't make sense that a different filter would give you more power/boost.

My R32 still runs the standard airbox and is making 306rwkw but uses cai and a hks filter.We cracked open the airbox on the dyno to see if it made a differance and lost about 2kw from memory

cheers Peter

ps keeps the stock look

My R32 still runs the standard airbox and is making 306rwkw but uses cai and a hks filter.We cracked open the airbox on the dyno to see if it made a differance and lost about 2kw from memory

cheers Peter

ps keeps the stock look

Do you still use the stock intake pipe (turbo to air box) and stock plumb-back and breather setup?

Edited by abu
My R32 still runs the standard airbox and is making 306rwkw but uses cai and a hks filter.We cracked open the airbox on the dyno to see if it made a differance and lost about 2kw from memory

cheers Peter

ps keeps the stock look

Look back a few pages Peter..

Some clown already posted a link to your car.

:banana:

GTST25 - I meant that if you were hitting boost cut with the K&N due to it flowing so well, then how come it didn't do it with NO filter at all.., no restriction so with your theory should flow as much as possible and hit boost cut.

Look back a few pages Peter..

Some clown already posted a link to your car.

:banana:

GTST25 - I meant that if you were hitting boost cut with the K&N due to it flowing so well, then how come it didn't do it with NO filter at all.., no restriction so with your theory should flow as much as possible and hit boost cut.

Because we changed the settings on the pfc boost controller to prevent this happening on the dyno.

Here guys I'll put it simply:

1 - Before dyno day:

Car had a new paper air filter - car went great and was driven for weeks - at full throttle no problems from memory we were running about 10 psi boost

Dyno day:

2- I changed the paper filter for a K&N air filter on dyno day and on the way to the dyno found that boost now spiked a few psi higher. NO other changes had been done. This made the pfc hit fuel cut as if the boost setting is a certain amount lower than the boost result you will hit fuel cut. I then changed the boost duty cycle etc and tested it until I had better control of the boost and NO fuel cut.

3- On the dyno I tried taking the K&N air filter and airbox lid off and it made no difference between power runs.

So therefore the only reason why I hit fuel cut was because we changed the air filter from paper to K&N.

Obviously the K&N air filter was less restrictive than the paper filter.

Cheers

What GTST is trying to say is, if there was to be any difference in power it would be without the air filter as there is no restriction.

Doesn't make sense that a different filter would give you more power/boost.

Why??? Less restriction will give you more power.

Why??? Less restriction will give you more power.

yeah.. so no filter = less restriction

which in your theory, less restriction = more power?

so if no filter is less restriction, why didn't you gain any power with no filter?

Edited by abu
yeah.. so no filter = less restriction

which in your theory, less restriction = more power?

so if no filter is less restriction, why didn't you gain any power with no filter?

Obviously the k&n flat panel filter lets enough air in to suit that power requirement without restriction. If it was making 1000 horsepower I would expect a different result - but then you'd be concerned with air flow meters etc.

I'm not pushing brand name parts. I just think from my experience that the stock paper filters must be pretty restrictive in comparison to aftermarket oiled filters such as the K&N flat panel.

It will fit...i guarantee it...although the filter will be crushed ever so slightly...i know because thats on my car at the moment...

It will not really give much of a gain over the airbox for now but it does stop the cops from hassling me...and when i hit the track or strip...i just remove the airbox cover...

If you want to open up the airbox...you can open up the base and run another pipe to feed the airbox....

Hey any chance of posting pics of that ? As i was trying to do that one sometime ago but was a bit put off as I thought I would need to butcher it

Fuel cut hey?

interesting..

Yep... Straight from page 11 pfc manual. Fuel cut can be triggered by 2 things:

If a fuel cut occurs while driving...

Fuel cut caused by the Rev Limiter

This fuel cut will occur when the engine RPM's exceed the Rev Limit setting

Fuel cut caused by the Boost Limiter

This fuel cut will occur when the boost exceeds the boost setting by 0.25kg/cm^2. The boost

setting is adjustable with the FC Commander.

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/powerFC.pdf

Edited by gtst25

wouldn't it be dangerous to cut fuel in a situation of full boost?

Surely you don't want to have any lean situation ....

I would have thought a timing retard/cut for rev limit or overboost would be a better option.

anyway, I think the point of this thread was pod or air box.

Air box for the win.

standard filter or other Panel filter.

but for under $20 for a brand new OEM filter, you can't go wrong.

and could easily replace it each service and know you have a perfectly clean, perfectly filtering new filter.

on a side note, I serviced my Liberty last week.

the air box is the same as many other cars (commodore, nissans, etc)

subaru sells for $18.

Holden sells for $12.

same filter, same part number.

also, RYCO and Valvoline etc all make replacements for these boxes.

so when cutting the hole in the bottom of the std airbox.do you just cut the hole in the bottom of the box and same size hole in the car,or do you also use a feed/guide/snorkel?

or is just having the hole good enough considering it pretty much sits on the flat surface of the engine bay which will be cut.

Go to bunnings, get a large diameter PVC pipe and some bends.

go home with new bits.

if you have a FMIC, the area under the air box will have one hole free.

ENLARGE this hole to be the same size as your PVC pipes.

fit the air box back in.

from underneath, use something like a liquid paper pen and draw pretty much trace the hole from the body of the car to the air box.

remove air box.

cut out hole.

Insert PVC pipe in and silicon it in place.

blah blah blah..

essentially, you want the PVC pipe going from the front bar, to the air box.

mount it on however you see fit.

it doesn't even need to have a ram effect.

just a feed of cold air.

GTST is right, thats what I used and put the air intake to the front bar for a ram effect which works well and thanks for linking to my thread GTST a picture explains better.If you look close at the airbox you will see the afm plug is into the air box,using an old afm this is an easy mod and keeps the boys in blue of your back .

Abu the airbox to turbo pipe is 90mm same at turbo inlet and custon outlet on the airbox all made to look as stock as possible .If you look close at the engine pic in the link you can see between the crossover pipe and the rockercover the plumb back pipe which plumbs back the the new airbox to turbo pipe so all looks legal

cheers Peter

Yeh,that inside bit is sweet,its just when i try to collect air from the front bar,it blocks the top part of my smic.would i get much benefit from just having the opening facing down behind the smic,not so much ram forced air just like an extra pick up.

e.g 100mm hole in btm of airbox layed hard againt the 100mm hole ill put into the car.any benefit?

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