Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sounds allot like the master cylinders is gone finito caput lolz. but could be brake booster as well but master should be the problem that is from experience. but can never hurt to be check by a professional and get this problem fixed asap or else it will happen again and it can be scary if that happens where no brake power and u going down a hill thats from experience and hope no one experiences that lolz

nah shouldn't lol any pro can diagnose it , i just got miy brake master reconditions and doing full brake make over for my 32gtst lolz befor road use !! its good to search whats good and whats not :D

This sort of saves me making another thread, so i'll semi- hijack yours

I have a gtr with standard rotors, (well standard spec, not slotted or anything tho) and some high performance pad (i saw them in a catalogue and they're quite exxy green ones)

Anyways after doing a few spur run's i locked up the brakes a lil coming into a corner and had the abs light come on, it braked fine but about 10 minutes later when i stopped at some lights i could push my pedal all the way to the floor, and pumping didn't really work. By the time i had gotten home the problem had almost gone and now when i drive it it brakes fine but it doesn't seem as responsive.

More effort is needed to brake (it still brakes easily enough) and my corolla and val both brake alot easier than the gtr. I can't really remember how it was before you but considering the size of the brakes i'm guessing they're normally alot more responsive.

It has plenty of fluid and i only bled the brakes about 1500 km's ago, i'm thinking maybe the diaphragm is gone but i'm not sure, maybe gtr's have a bit of take up b4 they break standard.

Also 1 other thing, idk if it's bad but it never happened in my old car, my brakes smoke a fair bit after a hard-ish run, they don't smell oddly enough at all but they smoke a fair bit

Ne ways, no idea about the 2nd bit but does the 1st problem sound like master cylinder is shot?

I think you've boiled the fluid. Some liquid or air might have got in there. Bleed the brakes again and that should fix it for now but if it happens again then look to the master cylinder. It's not the booster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...