Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, with the r32's as old as they are, at some point will need seals replaced on manual gearbox.

If your gearbox is somewhat leaking the main culprit will be the old seals which have started to show their age by leaking.

Now seals arnt that expensive especially if you get them from a bearing manufacturer as they stock seals for most car gearbox's although they are not genuine but still cheaper.

Nissan Part numbers for the gearbox seals are:

32114-Y4000AU (front gearbox seal) -$4.54

32136-U0100AU (rear gearbox seal) - $8.30

Prices may vary between nissan dealerships

So either pop down to your local nissan dealer and provide the part numbers or ring up ur local bearing place and ask them if they have them in stock.

here is a pic of the seals ( pic 1)

Removing and Replacing front input shaft seal

Remove the 5 bolts holding the front cover on(pic 2)

You'll then be able to see the front input shaft bearing and another shafts black bearing.note the shim hanging off, when reinstalling the cover plate put the shim in the corresponding grrove in the plate(pic 3)

pic of the bearing shim(pic 4)

Pic of cover plate, note the 2 big circles, the left circle holds the black bearing shim while the right circle contains the front input shaft seal which we will be replacing(pic 5)

flip the cover plate ova and you will see the hole in the protruding shaft, slide a screwdriver through this hole and hammer out the seal(pic 6)

seal is now removed, clean up the cover with degreaser and make sure seal surface is totally clean(pic 7)

oil up the seal and seal surface and push into the hole, now you will never be able to push a seal in flush with ur own hands, to get it sitting flush take your old seal and place on top of the new seal and hammer flush as shown in the foto, never ever hammer directly onto the seal as you may damage it (pic 8)

placing old seal over new seal to hammer flush, make sure the seals numbers are facing upwards(Pic 9)

Now reassamble in the reverse order making sure you put the bearing shim into the circular groove corresponding to the black bearing again making sure you clean and oil up front input shaft and front seal.Bolt front cover back on.

Removing and replacing rear oil seal

here is a picture of the rear of the gearbox, surrounding the output shaft is the rear seal (pic 10)

grab a flat head screwdriver and lever off the output shaft to pop the seal out (pic 11)

same process goes with the rear seal, clean seal and seal surface, oil the seal and surface up,push seal in and then hammer flush with the old seal.

Thats it Done!!!!

Now sit back and enjoy with the peace of mind your gearbox wont leak.

please note, front cover gasket may need replacing, mine was fine so i didnt have to get a replacement, if you need a gasket ask nissan when you are there and they can get the part number up on their nissan fast computers and order it for you.

post-36737-1198108219_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108246_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108268_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108283_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108305_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108329_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108353_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108372_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108392_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108417_thumb.jpg

post-36737-1198108442_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198427-replacing-r32-manual-gearbox-seals/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...