Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Got told the other day that my right side inner tail light but the outer part of the tail light is out... pulled out the inner boot trim and found there was only the nuts that hold the complete unit in.. do i have to remove these little clips or am i missing something...

Hope this makes sense.. if not i can get a pic!!

thanks in advance..

mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198716-r34-tail-light-removal/
Share on other sites

Yup remove the boot trims and you should see 4 screws that hold the tail lights in

simply remove the nuts and pull from the outside,

then it's a case of turning the plug on the bulb you wanna replace.

Take care when putting the tail light back on though, when I installed my LED taillights I simply put the tail light housing back and tightened the nuts until they stopped turning, but the taillights didn't sight properly the way the used too. They were too far in making the bootlid stick out.

What I had to do was hold the taillight housing where I wanted it then tighten the nuts.

Could've just been my car but you'll see what I mean if it's the same as mine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...