Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

R33 lower control arms

Age:

70,xxx km

Condition:

Perfect working order

Price:

160 + postage

$160 and I will personally deliver it anywhere in Melbourne

No longer for sale

To Fit: (What car)

R32 & R33

Location:

Melbourne - south eastern suburbs

Contact:

PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381

Comments:

R33 lower control arms, great upgrade for R32 skyline for some extra track and camber

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...de-t190227.html

DIY thread above on how to install then, quiet easy I must say

:wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208150-r33-lower-control-arms/
Share on other sites

i looked for some of these for ages a while ago and paid like 200 bucks. this is cheap

great upgrade and sooo easy to fit almost tempted to buy a spare set

Thats right man, thats what I'm trying to tell these guys but no one is listening!! :P

If you want them let me know, do you a good price posted to NSW

If these aren't sold by Friday I will be putting them in my car Friday night, then you can all drool over my extra front camber :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...