Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Long time reader, first time writer. I've just purchased my first Skyline and I couldn't be happier with it. But have a few questions I hope someone can help me with. Firstly, when I purchased the car the guy I bought it off told me this was one of only 560 units made, the nissan group-A evolution series, but on some research I found that these were produced in 1990 not 1989, does anyone know anything about this model and how to tell if it is actually one?

Also, when I switch the car off the Hicas light comes on and I can feel a small clunk which seems to be coming from near the front wheels, is this normal?

Cheers guys.

post-48987-1205873723_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211030-my-new-89-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

1. hicas light coming on and clunk = not normal, well at least my car does not do that...

im not sure what it would be but best get a good big service done when purchasing a gtr anyways. although if you have bought off an australian owner might be a bit of a different story.

i spend 1900 on new clutch, timing belt etc just after i bought mine, now runs sweet.

As for the group A, maybe check the VIN number on the net and see what you can find out

1. hicas light coming on and clunk = not normal, well at least my car does not do that...

im not sure what it would be but best get a good big service done when purchasing a gtr anyways. although if you have bought off an australian owner might be a bit of a different story.

i spend 1900 on new clutch, timing belt etc just after i bought mine, now runs sweet.

As for the group A, maybe check the VIN number on the net and see what you can find out

Cheers! Thanks for that. And yes I will check it in for service ASAP. Hope it doesn't uncover any major problems. :cheers:

Cheers! Thanks for that. And yes I will check it in for service ASAP. Hope it doesn't uncover any major problems. :down:

Cool, thanks for that. My vin is (This is how it is written on the transfer papers) 6U9000BNR32000861.

Comes up as build date 08/89 with the model code KBNR32RXFSLMZG which is identical to my GTR. There should be some sort of badging on it whether it be inside the engine bay or on the exterior to detail if its anything different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...