Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the tittle says my R33 is stalling at low revs when and after turning corners or coming to a corner.

i have observed that the battery light flashes when it is about to stall but thats about it. i dont think its my battery as its brand new and only the moter cuts out but when i start it again its fine. someone said it could be the alternator and the battery not charging propably, anotehr has told me ity could be the power steering over loading the moter and another said that it was the idle switch. anyone got any otehr ideas? because this is starting to become a pain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211467-automatic-r33-stalling/
Share on other sites

Mate, its been 20 mins! Relax, someone will answer your question. The battery light always comes on when a car is about to stall. It has nothing todo with the battery, its just that the alternator isnt spinning fast enough, cos the revs are too low. Battery is fine, and you say that the car is starting fine, so I'd say the alternator would be fine as well. I dont think it would be the power steering, and possibly the idle switch. My mate had the same problem as this, and turns out the throttle body was open too much, letting in too much air, and stalling the engine. Might pay to have that one checked out. Otherwise try doing a diagnostic. Or convert it to manual :D

I have always been under the impression that if you can stall an auto, you're talented... :blink:

Good luck finding the problem though. Have you had a mechanic look at it?

oh its getting a conversion in the next few months lol,

the mechanic said it could be hundreds of things and that its better waiting till it shows real problems before pulling it apart to check.

Really? Did they even look at it? Sounds a bit dodgy to me! In the mean time, have you tried driving with two feet? That way you can rev the car up more before taking off ect to keep the revs up and prevent it from stalling. Or even shift manually?

My stag will stall occasionally as well. I just removed the factory BOV and put a block off plate in its place which has caused it to happen. Im thinking the ECU needs to be reset to it can learn how to deal with the air flow again but im too lazy to d/c the battery :)

I can tell you that it is your BOV.

How do i know this?? i learnt the lesson myself. you won't have the problem if you put the standard one back on.

It is called reversion.

REVERSION - Reversion occurs when some of the burned exhaust gases are pushed back into the combustion chamber and intake system during valve overlap. This is caused by exhaust manifold pressure exceeding intake pressure or by shock waves in the exhaust ports and manifolds.

  • 10 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...