Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Modification Plans

hoony

By hoony,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

monga Experienced

monga

Posted
Posted
i wouldn't bother with doing poncams it will eventually destroy your bottom end they are good for power but only if you are looking for big numbers and require taking the engine apart, also dont bother getting 1000cc injectors again only needed for big power aplications 250rwkw is a big number and very streetable and you would only need 550cc injectors for that and they sell for about 600 a set.

Have a look in the traders section for mechanical parts (dont buy them second hand your asking for trouble) and you should be able to pick up a profec b and power fc from someone pretty cheap just look around

My 2 cents :(

lucky its worth 2 cents, cams will not destroy your motor...

WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
Posted (edited)
lucky its worth 2 cents, cams will not destroy your motor...

sorry guys i was going to do this myself so i asked my mate who is a mechanical engineer and has been working on engines his whole life and he advised me against it as he thinks they can eventually destroy the motor

EDIT

sorry guys miss i miss understood what he said, he said that it will destroy bottom end power not the bottom end whoops :D

Edited by WA_R32
WA_R32 Grand Master

WA_R32

Posted
Posted

this is what he meant

Cams won't destroy the bottom end of the engine, they will destroy the low end power. Its fairly complicated how it occurs. But basically a high lift camshaft will allow air a larger gap for air to get into the engine. This means that the velocity of the air entering the engine will be lower. If the velocity becomes too low, it reduces the turbulence of the airstream and the atomised fuel begins to condense into droplets. These droplets will lead to poor combustion as liquids don't burn. During combustion these fuel droplets are evaporated by the heat of combustion, all of the energy that goes into evaporating these droplets is no longer available for pushing the piston down. This is also why your fuel economy will get worse, as more fuel will need to be injected to get the same amount of easily ignited atomised fuel. However the aspect of a lumpy cam that has the greatest effect on low end power is the duration (how long the valves are held open for). There are a number of factors that cause this, but the easiest to explain, and probably the biggest contributor to a loss of low end power is the fact that a long duration camshaft will hold the inlet valve open longer. A long duration camshaft will hold the inlet valve open a considerable amount of time after bottom dead centre. At high rpm the inlet gasses are moving so fast that they have a considerable amount of momentum. Holding the inlet valve open past BDC takes advantage of this momentum allowing more air into the engine (air continues to flow into the engine even fter the piston has begun to travel upwards). However at low rpm the air has much less momentum, and consequently some air can actually be forced back out of the engine before the valve is shut. A similar thing occurs in the exhaust, except that the exhaust gasses are let out too

early. There is also the possibility of inlet gasses being sucked out the exhaust during the valve overlap period.

not confussing at all

Marco-R34GTT Grand Master

Marco-R34GTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oh I see...

The thought of cams cracking the crank case seem utterly ludicrous... I was about to call greylands ffs....

But all is gud now! :P

Edited by Marco-R34GTT
  • 1 month later...
hoony Mentor

hoony

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Blitz thunder bahaha

funds DID permit but now i've run into a bit of financial strife...

a few things can happen in the position i'm in at the moment...

car doesn't sell = cosmetic plans first... ie;

FULL URAS kit so that means new Front Bar, Side Skirts, Rear Bar WITH Vented Bonnet in black and boot in black... no wing and new rims...

then i'll move onto the FMIC and PowerFC and Fuel Pump...

Injectors and Turbo can come later...

i'll be doing the interior before i do the turbo and injectors...

if i DO sell then i have two options... ie;

buy my brothers TME... if he's sold that then i might have to go the Blitz 4 door Thunder and it WILL be manual turbo

i want the decals and all, man that car makes me melt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...