Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok....well i am looking 2 get an engine swap in my R34...and i was wondering if anything on the body would need to be changed if i was swapping a RB25DE to a RB26DETT...i know it is .1 litre bigger...but is there anything i would need to change to have a GT-R engine in my R34? I was thinking if something needed to be changed then it would most likely change everything like i would have 2 get a GT-R Hood and body kit...but im not sure...so plz help me with this...and if something needs to be changed then tell me everything that needs 2 be changed like if i needed a GT-R hood i would also need a GT-R body kit...Thanx 4 the help :)

youd need to change very little. certainly not the body kit , as that has no bearing onthe engine. the rb26 doesnt sit any higher than the rb25, though if you wanted top mount turbos you may have to lok at bonet clearance. (more of an issue with rb30s as the block is higher.

youll need a new ecu, remap and perhaps it wopuld be wise to look at uprated drive shafts and certainly brakes and suspension to handle the ike from 200 ish bhp to 300plus.

lot of work mate ...but can be done

youd need to change very little. certainly not the body kit , as that has no bearing onthe engine. the rb26 doesnt sit any higher than the rb25, though if you wanted top mount turbos you may have to lok at bonet clearance. (more of an issue with rb30s as the block is higher.

youll need a new ecu, remap and perhaps it wopuld be wise to look at uprated drive shafts and certainly brakes and suspension to handle the ike from 200 ish bhp to 300plus.

lot of work mate ...but can be done

thanx mate!

What you need:

RB26DETT

RB25DET box - NA boxes will not be able to hold that power and RB20DET boxes will strip gears and do in bearings at that level too.

RB26DETT loom - You will have re-wire the whole ECU system

RB26DETT ECU - Self explanatory

GTR or Higher Fuel Pump - NA fuel pumps will simply not supply enough fuel

Fuel Pressure regulator - You will need to replace this for the fuel system

RWD sump - I know Rb 25 AWD and RWD sumps are direct fit but I dont know if a 25 sump will fit a 26

Front pipe/Dump pipe will need to be changed too

Then there is everything you really SHOULD change.. but not absolutely essential for the engine to work

Diff - Large power and open diffs do not go well together

Brakes - I like knowing I can stop.. especially as I am assuming your putting in a 26 to go faster.. going faster means you will need more braking power

Exhaust - A stock GTR exhaust is the LEAST you should put on.. You dont want to have all this power and not get the most out of it

Front Mount Intercooler - Stock ones are fine but you will have to source one as the RB26 engines dont usually come with them and you will need it to complete the intake piping

You may need to chop/change the front bar to allow for a FMIC

A boost gauge is a good idea too

And a stock bonnet will be fine

Got a Lazy 10K?

Edited by GTS4WD

Funny that.. guess what I found in the for sale section?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rw...um-t215977.html

You could always PM him an ask here he got it from if you dont but it off him

Funny that.. guess what I found in the for sale section?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rw...um-t215977.html

You could always PM him an ask here he got it from if you dont but it off him

Thanx alot man...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...