Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone and anyone yes my afm agony has continued. i know when your afm is disconnected your car will max at 2500rpm but what when you re-connect it just cranks and wont kick i've changed afm,removed pins from connector to rule out poor connection,i've checked continuity from pins to computer all ok, my first Q is has anyone had or heard of this before. Q2 does any one know the volts or ohms reading for a working afm pins. Q3 does the r33 seriesII have a ecu reset procedure? or a diagnostic pin out for codes?

Your input and advice will be greatly appreciated o wise sau members! thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217402-afm-agony/
Share on other sites

I've done the same as you and my car starts fine.

It might sounds rudimentary but are all the other connections/vacuum lines properly in place?

yeah i've checked all vac lines and connectors! i think the new afm i got is shonky thats why i'm after voltages or ohm readings

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217402-afm-agony/#findComment-3838316
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • R34DE as in R34 with an RB25DE? So did you get this? Or you planning to?  I'm not really sure what you're saying. 
    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
×
×
  • Create New...