Jump to content
SAU Community

Are These The Correct Braided Brake Lines For An R33 Gtr?

some_cs_student
 Share

Recommended Posts

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Just want to confirm I got the correct braided brake lines as they look completely different to whats on the car.

I've attached a pic of what the R32 GTR ones look like from the Markk group buy on ADR approved lines.

Is this the correct ones for an R33?

They don't look anything like whats on there now so I'm not sure about fitting them on....

Has anyone fitted there R33 GTR's ones?

Are these the correct lines?

Apologies for the terrible pictures, I don't want to take it out of the packaging if it is the wrong one....

Regards,

Gareth

post-13527-1210156538_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156778_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156799_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156814_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156842_thumb.jpg

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

Yeah, i received the incorrect ones, but it was no ones fault. Ive got a 93 r32 gtst M spec which should use the gtr ones pictured above, but it uses normal r32 ones which do not have the 'V' shape for the front lines. Ring Goran at Brakewest if you have any further problems. His customer service is excellent.

Shaun.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted
They are the right hoses mate.

PM sent with further details.

Cheers

Thanks a lot Mark.

I think my current ones must be aftermarket then, I have a 1 piece brake hose on the front with a bracket there to hold it, it doesn't look like these particular lines will be able to connect.

I might need some other parts to put these in.

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory R33 GTR lines look like?

I'll try and post pictures of what my ones look like tomorrow.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I created this thread to confirm that they are standard lines.

But still no idea how to fit them, does anyone have an install guide for the braided brake lines?

Or any tips on how you installed them? I can't see how they would connect the existing system doesn't have block connectors on it at all.

Thanks,

Gareth

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

if they are the correct lines you should just unbolt your old ones from the caliper on one end and from the hard metal line at the other end, then install the new lines in their place. same process for front and rear. if that wont work then you have the wrong lines.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

I don't know which thread to respond in, so this is a quote from the other one.

I can't see what your problem is. The braided kit only replaces the 2 rubber hoses, the standard steel hoses remain.

On the front, the block bolts to the upright.

One braided hose (from memory the longer one) goes from the block to the inner guard where it joins the steel tube at the right angle bracket on the inner guard.

The other braided hose (from memory the shorter one) goes from the block to the joint for the steel tube that goes to the calliper.

On the rear, the block end of the braided hose bolts to the steel hose that goes to the calliper.

The other end of the braided hose joins the steel tube at the right angle bracket on the inner guard .

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...