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Beer Baron

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Everything posted by Beer Baron

  1. I agree it’s likely dirty crud that’s made it’s way back to the tank via the fuel return. The fuel pump holder/pickup baffle thingy is plastic. The only metal in there is the pump and wiring and clamps. I’d do the same as BK suggested. Take it out, clean it, flush out the fuel lines and replace the fuel filter. Maybe double check it is a plastic GTR tank. 32 GTST tank is steel and I know people have fit GTR tanks into 32 GTST but I’m not certain if the GTST tank fits in a GTR, but it might.
  2. Cool thread and history. I guess I didn’t quite make the old school list 😢 but I was briefly an SDU member and I certainly feel old... I think I joined sau in 2002, maybe late in the year. i’m passing through to give thanks to our son of rajab and creator Prank. He built (and kept running) this place. I learned so much here and met so many great people, many of which are close friends to this day. Thanks Prank. ❤️ For those wondering I do still have a GTR and like all good ones it spends most of its time in the garage... I see my good buddy blitz has checked in above. He’s been a close friend now for more than 15 years, we have shared so many good times. Shonen has remained one of my close friends, plus he had the raddest 34GTT forever ago. brisby and I have caused mischief all over the world together and he still has the worlds best 32 GTST. I’ll probably forget some names but there’s a whole cast of friends I made here in Duncan, Kel, fatz, 31silhouette, bobbyporsche, merli, dan, dif, shell, Dave, tosh, steveN1, russ, mark, stretch and more. Thanks again PranK.
  3. yep spot on mate. to that list you need to add some injectors, fuel pump, Z32 AFM, good exhaust, front mount intercooler and a decent clutch. and yes it'll be more responsive with a 2530 but no where near the top end hit of the old TD06. probably a faster road car though but less fun on track.
  4. no they don't. they don't have OBD. they have consult instead which is a old nissan proprietary type of OBD and not compatible with any OBD devices.
  5. yes almost certainly you need to top up your power steering fluid (in the engine bay). try that.
  6. lol. better lock your door tonight woo! I'm fired up!!!
  7. nitto might well be Not Independent of Toyo Tyres Ok
  8. no shit hence the example! don't make me suffocate you with a tenga egg...
  9. daihatsu a division of toyota? nitto and toyo not the same thing? next time your messenger comes bringing info... shoot him! PS toyota own half of daihatsu but they are separate companies. nitto vs toyo on the other hand is more like comparing LEXUS to Toyota. as in nitto (just like lexus) is a made up 'brand' to market their products in another country.
  10. as much as i love kimi (and I do), he is not coming back to F1 ever. he's way too fat and also doesn't really seem to care anymore. plus I highly doubt he wants to go from the whole paddock sucking his finnish sausage to being just another b-grade driver at a b-grade team...
  11. yeah no problem driving with the new cooler.
  12. or perhaps build this if off road is more your thing.
  13. best option, try and find something built in 1988 or earlier and bring it in under pre=89 rule. not sure what if any good models are available in that timeframe. otherwise if you want a kei car with a tiny turbo engine... buy a smart for two (older ones are turbo, newer model is NA but more powerful standard). also have 5 speed semi-manual box and if you get bored of the pezzy stock turbo engine then you can slap in a GSXR1000 motor and 6 speed box for 180hp in a tiny little car. it's what I'm doing. end result is something like this:
  14. lol: "the two sweetest word in the English language... de...fault". bummer, still you can tell people you won the GTR class at Australian Track Battle Time Attack. congratulations. and yes well done to russ and newton too. still bit of a shame only half a dozen competitors in the 2 main classes.
  15. have not done it to any of mine (never needed to) but yes I know of a bloke who did it. I think there are even pics floating around on this forum somewhere.
  16. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341758-tirerackcom/
  17. is that right? only 5 people in street class and 7 in 'tuner' class? everyone wins a trophy day?
  18. agree. plus watching his face in the rear view mirror was putting me off my lunch too...
  19. yeah just ask hamilton... he's say 'almost' isn't the same as 'completely up his side pods smashing my front wing all over his face'
  20. indeed. they managed to kill senna after all! I'd call that poor management...
  21. you want voltex wing big boy. bit expensive but heaps good white man magic. either that or use the C-West GT wing II - Suzuka like what I sold berry for his R34 (in it's V1 guise). they make R34 bolt on version and it works bloody well.
  22. yes the 'dutiable value' will be the sticky point but you could probably successfully argue it as the price paid + freight. let's assume they agree to his declared value of $70K + $3K in shipping costs. $73K-$57K=$16K X .33 = $5.3K he'll also pay 73K X 0.05 = $3.7 plus GST which is levied on the cumulative cost of declared value + freight + duty so 73K + 3.7K = 76.7K X .10 = $7.67 so you now have: $5,300 LCT $3,700 duty $6,670 GST $3,000 freight costs Then: $200 for customs clearance $500 in port charges (AQIS inspection, cleaning etc) $50 for VIA $200 towing from wharf then: $800-$1500 for the stuff needed for personal import plate. blue slip (approx $400) green slip (approx $500) stamp duty (3% of declared value in NSW) rego (approx $350) and you're done. there is no 'compliance' done on personal imports so don't listen to anyone who tells you he needs to comply it. my advice would be call DoIT - Vehicle Imports, or even better Customs and discuss how they will determine the dutiable value as if they do deny his claim that it's $70K and base it at $120K then LCT component goes through the roof ($20K), as does GST and to a lesser extent import duty.
  23. yes all auctions have a reverse of some kind. so of course if start price is 1.5mil, you bid 1.5mil, no one else bids you do not necessarily get the car. this is a big downside to buyers who bid online. you really need to be bidding in person. a few reasons but mainly because when bidding in person, you can see when the price hits the reserve. often the seller is in the seller booth and if bidding slows down, but is close to the reserve they'll effectively lower the reserve and put the car 'on the market' to stimulate more bidding. you can often get a bargain that way. but no way to know this if you sitting on the other side of the world bidding via computer...
  24. yep, smaller rad and stock viscous fan is the way to go. it will cool plenty.
  25. if you are brave you can pull it apart and then source replacement seals and 0-rings for it. just keep everything super clean, take lots of pics/drawings and don't lose anything! a good seal place will be able to match most if not all the o-rings in it.
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