Beer Baron

cool. so yeah I was a bit low. so call it $7K in parts + labour to fit. still expensive but realistically could be done and running for around $8K. a lot better than $10K just 2 years ago.$2K is one more set of tyres, or a new fuel set-up etc.

I have previously towed a car with one of those 4cyl rodeos. was using a hire trailer so it was pretty heavy, but car was only 1200kg but either way it sucked big time. 5th gear was practically useless unless going down hill. on a flat road you had to rev the nuts off it in 4th before going into 5th as if you changed early you'd loose pace in 5th. I would personally go with something else.

great pics bris. i just got word I will be back in europe at some point next year so looks like count will be back at spa and the ring getting in the way of germans in porsches in 2012... join me or perish!

am I missing something? you binned your R32?

wing got stuck under the front of his car as he braked for parabolica. he was already coasting but when he hit the picks for the only real corner the bits of wing folder under the car meaning no steering (hence going straight off)... he was fking lucking not to get his clock cleaned by liutzi anyway, next man behind webber (rosberg) got the t-bone and webber escaped it by a bees dick. seb is still a tool. he will never be one of the greats in my mind. he's barely fit to tie schumachers laces in my eyes. and yeah was good to see the old never give up schuey back in action making hamiltons life hell. not sure what all the whinging about. he was perhaps a bit firm but it wasn't dirty of illegal. he just knows where to put his car at any given moment and doesn't fall for any of hamiltons bullshit. like brundle said. schuey hasn't bought a dummy in years but he's sure sold a few...

32 coupe? best option is buy one here. my rule of thumb is any car that sells for less than about $15K here (used to be $20K but i've mellowed) is not worth importing. simply because there are fixed costs associated with importing. FOB costs are around 80,000 to as high as 150,000 regardless of whether the car costs 100,000yen or 10,000,000yen. Shipping and port charges will still cost you $1500-$2,000 again with no bearing on value of the car (only is size in cubic meters affects this). your broker fee will also still be $800 to $1500 again regardless of car cost. Cleaning will still cost you $250 regardless of.... towing still costs whatever it costs.... compliance will still cost $2500...... etc. the only costs really affected by car value is importy duty (5%) and GST (10%) and potentially LCT (if car value over $57,000). so basically even if you buy a car for $100 by the time you import and comply it you'll be close enough to $10K invested in it. based on car worth about $100 I easily get to $7250 just in FOB costs, broker fee, shipping, customs clearance, 1 tow, AQIS steam clean and compliance. Car still needs rego (around $1,000 and given it was a $100 car it most probably needs new tyres, brake pads, service, and possibly other bits). and after all that it's still a $100 car and even in japan cars that cost $100 are going to be shit. if it's an early R32 add even more to this as it'll need intrusion bars or a new set of late model doors fitted. the only way this is worthwhile is if you wanted a really immaculate or special car. but given you said 'cheap' i'm guessing that's not the case. but by all means contact iron chef. if you are set on importing then go for it. just be aware of what you are doing.

sorry mate, the only skyline with an LSD worth having is the GTR. they might call the GTST diff an LSD but it's just a crap viscous POS. they were average when brand new and time and kms doesn't make them any better. by now they are nearly all single pegging and unpredictable. you ideal want a GTR diff which are mech 2 way LSD from factory and work very well and can be rebuilt for around $300 to be brand new.

not sure if R35 has pad wear sensors, they might. you would think if the 18inch pad is going to fit anything it'll fit with a 30 but I guess they make the thicker pads to fit cars using these calipers on the rear with little 20 odd mm thick rotors... maybe try a quick measure if you have a caliper around? 30mm for rotor, 36mm or pack, plus backing, plus piston protrusion = ? or wait for someone who's tried the 18s or even better buy some and be the guinea pig for the rest of us. and yeah $500 is nuts. at the moment there is project mu titan HC pads for F50s on ebay for less than $200 and they are a good pad too.

nup, too late. I know where you live merli. i'm heading round this weekend to 'claim' it. anyone want to help me finish this off and then drive the arse off it?

so considerate of nissan to put 2 tow hooks on the rear that sit proud of the bar for simple parachute installation. looks great. can't wait too see some fast times.

what turbo did you go with in the end? and looks like a full race mani too? nice.

yeah it's a TD42. just fired it up again the other day and put 12mth more rego on it. truck is running nicely. I hadn't driven it for more than 6th months but it started instantly and runs just as sweetly as always. with a full 12mths rego on it now would be a good time for someone to buy it.

that is ridiculous. 18mm pad (so more material), with slot (more finishing cost) is $189 vs a 16mm pad with no slot being $254. v interesting they are the same as R35 rears. that means any remaining japanese pad maker that doesn't make F40/50 pads yet will be making them soon. let me know if the 18mm pads fit. I'm sure they will. another 4mm pad shouldn't wreck things. also what thickness rotor are you using? 32mm?

here's an AW11 on ebay currently at $2500 asking for $5500 buy it now. could probably pick something like that up for around $4000-$4500 and have some cash left for insurance or your first bit of maintenance/mods. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Mr2-AW11-/280735833107?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item415d28dc13 in fact there's even some non-turbo and turbo SW20s that are almost in your budget... still I'd go for an AW11 with your budget as they are a tough little 1.6 and a beautiful engine.

the problem is any turbo silvia for $5k is barely worth owning. and they are a turbo car that will need expensive maintenance and gear. R33 skyline is a great choice but personally I'd call it a $10K budget car not a $5K car. check out the AW11 MR2. with just an oil cooler, good brake pads, a cheapie exhaust and a bit of boost they make a fun track car. but yeah the civic is probably your best bet. there is nothing wrong with that either. they can be made to handle perfectly well an as far as power goes even NA they get along pretty well. with more time and money sky's the limit power wise with plenty of 600hp+ turbo civics around.

yeah I wonder how a 7670 would run at 30psi on my Jun RB27? but given how responsive the 9180 was on berrys RB30 I was thinking 8374 for me but if the 7670 can make the power I want (380-400kw atw) then why not use it? I'm still not convinced it's a genuine 600hp/400kw @ 30psi at the treads turbo though but if it is then it's bloody awesome.

yeah or a honda civic. they have great aftermarket support and are raced the world over. plenty of stuff you can do to one of them to make them quick.

about the only car I reckon worth getting for $5K will be a AW11 MR2. you should be able get a supercharged one for that money too (I think) and they are a great fun car. mid engined, supercharged, RWD, if you're lucky you'll even score an LSD etc. plus like any boosted car you'll get much more gains modding it than anything NA.

also the mintex numbers are 1976F*R18.00 and pagid also use 2179 as well as 1287 for F40/F50 pads.

BTW a handy pic for all the F40 and F50 club members. it lists the projec mu part numbers and also kindly lists the compatible part number amongst a number of other pad makers.

you tried these guys for DS2500s DJR? http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/GT1_Pads.htm pad choice for F40/F50s is probably second to none. all the euro stuff is available, so is the US stuff and even the japanese stuff is all made in F40/F50 pad shapes. as far as the cool kids go, they most often mistake my F50s with 355mm rotors for stock R33 brembos... lol definitely no cred, especially since they fit under my 17inch LMGT4s...

bummer. still i've only ever used them for setting up the car. once sorted I'd never be touching them during a hot lap (or race). they are really just a set-up tool. I doubt anyone would be fiddling with the thing mid race!

so let me ask you this. do you reckon these days with the AUD vs USD it's possible to dry sump a RB26 GTR for $5-6K? I know only a couple years ago it was a $10k excercise to do properly. $300 for pump bracket $800 for balancer and $150 for mandrel up to $1000 for pump $400 for tank $2500 for lines and fittings $1000 for sump (supplying your stock sump to be modded) that's just over $6K. pump and tank may be got a bit cheaper too especially if buying used of ebay. it's certainly a lot cheaper to do these days.

isn't the skyline nationals on that weekend in VIC?

EDFC is fantastic for setting up shocks on a circuit as you can try multiple settings in one session and eliminate lots of variables. without it you usually can only test one change per session. by the time you go out again (typically an hour or more), track has changes, pressures have changed, your memory is fading etc and it can be hard to know if you're going backwards or foward. with EDFC you can change it each lap if you want. and immediately critique the changes.