Beer Baron

yeah agreed even if you have the most understanding and helpful workshop in japan if you get the engine here, isntal it and something aint right you are pretty much on your own. even just purely because sending the thing back and forth would negate any 'warranty' saving anyway. so yeah you need to have your eyes open. I've done a couple now where I had them built in japan and then shipped out here and I've also done 3 cars of mine where I had the engine built and then installed AND tuned in the car in japan (which is a safer way) and then imported the cars complete (2 X GTRs and 1 RX7). would I do it again? yeah for sure. but there are plenty of good local options these days. it was just convenient in my situation that's all.

yeah he sure did but they were not in factory position.... apexi RX6s are some cool high mount twins for a GTR too. there a lots of high mount options but -10s/GTRS are the biggest low mounts. the -10s with the big rear housings are for all purposes useless in twin form on a GTR even if it is a 3L.

nice info from the tuner. it really does look like a gun set-up.

10 or 10.5 is about as wide as I'd go dave in the 32. can run 265-285 on them no prob. and yeah definitely get the penis wheels! hot!

I run F50s on my R32 with 355mm rotors and it's a pretty good set-up. not as good as a nice set of alcons but it doesn't cost $10K either... it's certainly a shitload better than running the sumitomos. putting bigger pads that stick out of the caliper is just a waste of time. if you want to stick with the sumitomos then by all means run the 324mm rotor upgrade, good pads and braided lines but getting pads that stick out is not going to do anything. you do get a gain in simple leverage and heat capacity with the larger rotor but if you need more then you really need new calipers, 33/34GTR brembos are the next step up and are a much better caliper than the sumi's and have bigger pads after that you need F40/F50 and if that's not enough then it's time to open your wallet wide.

just get the original 4.363 diff out of your old engine and have it fitted to the new engine. that will solve your problems. in the meantime disable AWD (there is a way to do it for R33s) or as above don't drive the car.

it's not going to be quite as responsive as a 2.6 with GTSS. 2.8s are good but they are not magic. 2530s are quite a bit bigger. it will certainly out perform it off boost but in the midrange from say 3,000 to 4,5000 the GTSS 2.6 will be faster, but everywhere else the 2.8 with 2530s will be better. from 4,500 up the 2530 2.8 will be piling on the power. cost of shipping an engine depends how you do it. if you just want to send consolidated cargo expect about $500 for freight and about $400 in port costs/charges/AQIS/clearance costs. otherwise you can share space in a container with someone, or you can send it via TNT etc. I'd say around $800 is reasonable for an engine.

yep, definitely don't start with hard front and soft rear shocks. GTRs behave like a RWD but a RWD with bugger all front grip (but great traction). so some of the usual set-up principles apply but not all. definitely start with front bar to full soft and rear to full hard. generally when doing damper set-up you would start with both ends on medium and work from there. always take your settings from full hard. ie if it has 16 clicks you want all adjusters clockwise to full hard then wind them back 8 clicks to get half. in a GTR though I would start with front on medium and rear harder than that as you want the rear end to be a bit lively as that's how you get the front to turn in a motokhana type event. so maybe front on 8 clicks and rear on 4 clicks (from full hard). I agree with darkside on the project mu handbrake shoes. the GTR handbrakes are actually good with a set up upgraded shoes in them and lock up hard and repeatably. i too have found some hydraulic ones are hit and miss. rake is important as it affects how the awd operates quite a bit. and yeah it'll need some adjustment but basically you want the front static ride height around 10mm higher than the rear. as far as rear toe goes i've never tried as much toe in as 10mm each side. i've actually tried a little toe out but it was diabolical under brakes. every corner was spent backing it in trying not to spin! even a zero it still wants to wag it's tail under brakes (this is a 32 though, R33s are better) so I've found a mm or two of toe in was good to keep it stable under brakes. anyway, you'll get there. it take a bit of time but you should have a good starting point from all the info the guys posted.

I'll confirm DJR81s advise. definitely start with bars set to front full soft and rear full hard. adjust from there if needed but it's unlikely you'll ever move the front off full soft. especially for the tighter stuff you'll want a fair bit of toe out on the front (again as much as you're comfortable with as it can make the car a bit twitchy in the fast stuff). and rear to a bit toe in (i've tried 0 but it's a bit too lively even for me). camber as much as you can get on the front (3.5neg would be nice) and castor a fair bit won't hurt but you'll be limited by guard clearance anyway. rear camber, don't need much neg 1 or 1.5 degrees is usually enough. and yeah 40psi way too much for semi-slicks even in a motokhana type course. 36psi hot is a good start and then adjust up and down from there as you need. RE55s are great but A048s (even used ones) will still be miles better than the sportcontacts you have now so by all means use them if available. don't pay too much for them though as A048s are superseeded now and any used tyres and generally past their best anyway (hence them being for sale!). enjoy.

same principle as the tomei stuff. plenty of people have used/use the tomei stuff but this other process sounds fine too.

all I can say is lol! sand blasting plenum leaving it porous to the point that it's sucking in air through the casting? it's pretty unlikely. castings can have pin holes in them but they don't just appear after a light blasting to remove paint. it will have to be so porous you could just about see through it!

oh no? which car in the wall? and what was the historic GRP A record? well done.

awesome. yeah the downside with the billet gear is lack of flexibility. as you know someone like your self can make up a custom pan with sheet metal and a welder without too much work, but for a billet pan it means doing the design and then tying up a mill for hours and hours and then it's not easy to make changes to it without starting again from scratch so for one offs and small runs it's just so expensive. custom made sheet metal will always be the go in those cases I guess and for GTRs they are good in that you can retain a good portion of the stock sump (diff housing, basic frame etc). still I'd love to see your billet pan with manifold incorporated. they such a neat solution and you surely save money on fittings. we both know how quickly -12 and -10 fittings and braided line adds up to being thousands of $.

awesome list and idea. the only one I'd add which is my favourite supplier of dry sump gear.... www.ebay.com just need to know what you are looking at and what the stuff is worth as it's just as easy to get ripped off as it is to get a bargain...

he has midori cams.

also stock R34 turbos have much smaller wheels and housings than N1s. so even with steel wheels they will not flow as much.

tomei make a coating for the throttles bodies that helps the butterfly seal against the throat. scroll to the bottom of this page: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e193_others_gauge.html

yep, good choices. that will all be fine.

there is nothing wrong with apexi pods. i'ev personally used them on probably a dozen of my own cars (and 2 at a time on my GTRs). they don't need to be done up with a fking breaker bar. they should seal just fine. are you sure it was genuine? i would either just buy another genuine apexi filter (if you're worried I have a few spares and can happily flog you one - I buy mine direct from apex in japan). or buy a K+N pod filter. they filter well, are cleanable and last forever. some people have trouble with the filter oil but it's not rocket science. I've used K+N and never had problems, just don't over-oil it. just like don't over-tighten the apexi pod. some people think more is better and tighten the fk out of everything, overfill their oil, etc. it's a recipe for headaches.

I reckon someone should get onto dailey to make one of their pans with integrated manifold for RB26. bit of a challenege considering you need to incorporate diff housing too but would be a awesome piece of gear.

pretty sure i watched it on foxtel last few years.

well done. it's not easy to get a skyline running 7s that's for sure!

if the ones on that US site are genuine they are as cheap as you will ever find them. $2K a set brand new is so cheap it's not funny. I would want to be sure they were genuine before buying them though as that price is insane.

just one small tip, add the direction of travel to the map (I guess it's clockwise but not everyone will know).

having said all that these guys are serious and I hope they get it off the ground. shame it's about 3 hours north of sydney though... we need another couple of sydney tracks within 1.5hrs of sydney. you know, like oran park for example...