Beer Baron

or go straight to the source of the slant nose.... the 935 race car. super hot (but outside of my 80s/90s time frame). they eventually made versions of it with up to 800hp!

yeeha, was hoping someone would bring up the hardcore 930S turbo with the flatnose/slant nose. best front end on a 911 ever I reckon. they are so hot and again very distinctively 80s. they are also in my top list of cars I want badly. just so tough, and bullshit fast too. here's a nice one in japan of all places.

for those that don't know the alfa GTV6 is a pretty cool car. it was released in 81 and powered by a 2.5L V6 (beautiful engine) that put out about 160hp. sounds like nothing but at the time a porsche 924 were just over 100hp... they were front engined but with a rear mounted transaxle (using what's called a de dion rear member) which gave a 50/50 weight distribution. they had other cool feautures like 4 wheel disc brakes with inboard rear disks (very cool), and were pretty rapid for their day. they also made a 3L (potenziata) version and some rare twin turbo versions too that put out something like 240hp. the 2.5 is a sweet donk though and can be fettled to make decent power. check out that rear end and sexy inboard disks etc... pretty cool for a car made in 1980..

great ad for the GTV6. man I miss the 80s...

they looked cool in race form too. and here's a better pic of the standard car (if you can call a zagato bodied alfa 'standard'). btw another fav 80s car while we are talking alfa has to be the alfa GTV6. and a GTV6 race car. they made some beautiful cars even earlier too.

also to the quirky 80s/90s section lets add the Alfa Romeo Sprint Zagato (SZ, but not the RZ because convertibles are for women). a bit quirky looking but something about them is just "so 90s" and tough. I'd have one. with open pipes to hear that lovely alfa 6 note.

though if we are going to go a bit older I will make an exception. and my god it's one of my favourite cars of all time. lamborghini miura.... mumma mia!

werd. I started off with cool shit like diablo's and stuff and now we have some pullme thing and a 356 which i'm fairly certain is not in my golden era and also looks like a sleeker volkswagen beetle (not a compliment!). ok, let's get things back on track. just to be difficult I want my diablo to be the SE30 with the sports pack (extra 75hp) which only a handful ever existed. it was the lightweight stripped out version but with 600hp... one day. also, whilst on the topic of awesome 80s/90s cars can someone please stop fcking mr bean from buying maclaren F1s. he's now written off at least 2 that I know and if he buys another one i'm going to have to go take it off him. how the fk you can write off a maclaren F1 driving straight down a motorway is beyond me. perhaps if he had one girl on each side of him and was getting blown by one whilst simultaneously trying to do lines of coke of the others breasts I could perhaps see how things could get tangled and he might lose concentration for a moment but other than that there is just no excuse. in fact mid crash he should have dived out the window and thrown himself between the car and the pole to soften it's blow. selfish prick.

lol, you could have at least waited for the mirage to get past before you launched! wouldn't have been so much fun if it hooked up and steered straight into the side of him!

ok, well it's not too bad. the coil pack mount is very nice and for a good CDI system and coils it's not out of this world expensive. I mean if you had to buy a set of new splitfires and a HKS DLI that's over $1000 just for a slightly enhanced factory system.

yeah the jag is hot. would look good next to my CLK GTR I reckon. I also like the renault turbo 2. would love a nice one as a keeper. seriously, what good has come out of the car world since the year 2000? practically nothin! 80s and 90s are where it's at. get me a hypercolour t-shirt and a stick on some quality 80s tunes and I'm sorted. yeah baby!

i've not tried their skyline stuff. a mate had a modena gear set in another car and it seemed fine but my experience with them in skylines is zero. the ppg is good but by the time you get new centre plate, billet shafts, billet selectors etc it becomes pretty expensive and of course it still has limitations of being in the factory casing with the factory layout and size limitations etc. my feeling these days is for a road car you either spend a little (good standard box or something like a OS set at most) or for a track car just got straight to the hollinger. it's a lot to cop in one hit but they are fantastic and have a lot of benefits. plus if you need to sell it one day the resale is pretty strong too!

good post mate. thanks for sharing your opinion.

yeah keen to hear some feedback guys. trying to decide whether to buy another innovate kit or try this one instead.

oh. forgot to add. awesome project mate. great work on the v-bands. everyone I know complaining about leaking v-bands has the shit ones that are universal (no male/female). interestingly the ones that come with HKS gear have the proper lip and a female side to go with it, so do all the V-bands on my 94mm (3.75inch) trust power evolution exhaust. the other ones are just crap.

I don't even have to ask what pump it was. what a shame. yeah tomei or reimax. every single one I've opened was beautifully finished. it's not like the pump you had was a cheapie either right? from memory they are about the same price as a jun pump.

bloody oath mate. as soon as possible there will be a EFR9180 back on the Advan/Hi-Octane/RGM R34. Mark it about to try some other stuff (not turbo related) but as soon as we get another 9180 it's going back on for more testing. and we were all so happy with it's initial performance we are converting the RGM R32 to a full race manifold, twin turbosmart gates and a 9180 too. the T04Z was ok but it was only ever 'plan C' and a last minute back-up option. it was used simply because Mark had it available (was on the R33), and would fit the existing full race manifold set-up most easily of the available options (2 days before the event we didn't have many other choices!). It's full steam ahead with Full Race and Borg Warner EFR gear on both the RGM GTRs.

yeah carrera GT is ok...for a girls car (it's convertible after all so can never be that hardcore). their V10 is a piece of gear though. but still give me a maclaren F1 over that, or a Merc CLK GTR road version pls. see what I mean about everyhing good from the 80s/90s. imagine tootling down to the maccas drive through in this bad more. more to the point I like to imagine rocking up to the nurburgring entry drive through in it... or if we want to talk nissan then give me an R390 road car. oh baby.

personally (and this was on my evo 6 RS) I found they liked higher pressures than the track tyres I normally use (semi-slicks like A048/A050, RE55 etc). what track is it? given you have a R33 GTR I would start with around 32-33psi cold. they seemed to work well for me around 36psi hot, they might like even a touch more on a heavier car, maybe even try 34psi cold, do 3 laps or so to see how they feel, come in and check the pressures and adjust as needed from there. you should have it pretty sorted after 2 or 3 quick checks.

first of all what do you mean by 'aftermarket brakes'? do you just mean it has replacement rotors on it? or does it have aftermarket calipers with larger rotors or what? you need to first confirm that you are needing standard sized rotors and pads. then take it from there.

i'm sorry but this goes against everything i've seen and had recommended by any brake 'expert'. you do not want to be locking brakes during bedding in (it will just give you hot spots on the disk at best). you also should not be doing hard stops to a complete stand still. coming to a full stop does the same as locking the brakes, it just leaves a big deposit of pad material and/or hot spot in one place on the disk. as duncan said you want to start by doing 80-20 maybe 2 of those, then bump it up a bit (obviously only if safe to do so) like 110km/h to 20 and 2 or three of those (with some cooling time in between), then drive normally at decent speed for 5-10 mins without using the brakes (again if safe to do so). doing it on the freeway is fine but check your mirrors carefully as you don't want to get rear-ended at 20km/h in a 110 zone. you will be able to smell them quite strongly and they may even smoke a little bit. there's no need to get them super hot (like glowing red to the point they are about to catch fire) but they need to be progressively (but quickly) brought up to temp and then progressively cooled afterwards. this can be done easily on the track in just 1 or 2 laps. but better to do it sooner rather than later as you want to burn off some of the coatings/release agents and like duncan said you are transferring a layer of pad material/resin onto the rotor face.

i wimped out and got a thread repair type bloke to do them. he was awesome and cost was about $100-$150 for the 4 holes to be drilled, tapped, timeserts supplied and fitted. he did a very nice job. you really do want these holes to be dead square and in the perfect spot. but if you just want to buy some timeserts and the kit (comes with drill bit, tap and inserting tool) most fastener places will sell them (if in sydney try coventry fasteners). rotor diameter just use 324mm same as R33/R34 GTR standard. 2 piece is fine, there's a number of options in different brands. should not be any problem with outer pad fouling on the hat as long as they are the correct R33/R34 GTR hats with the right offset etc. if anyone is after a set of brembos I have a set of R34 GTR brembos front and rear (came off a car with 12,500kms!), full set of brand new slotted rotors (plus a set of used ones I got with them), full set of project mu pads, all lines, shims etc, fitted with timeserts in the front to allow fitment with standard bolts onto R32s and R33s.

I'll ask him. it was a fair while ago that he switched from the -5s to the -10s and I'm not sure if the -5s where ever on the same dyno as the -10s and the 6258s. his results were fairly typical to most well set-up GTRs from memory. the -5s were more responsive than the -10s but didn't make quite as much power. the 6258s are definitely more powerful than either set and seem to be as responsive or more so than the -5s. he's going to wind up the wick on the 6258s soon too.

it 'might' be fine, but if it was my car i'd be fixing it... yes a hassle if you have to drop front subframe but once it's off it's fairly easy to beat flat again. it's certainly not going things any good as with dent in the middle oil is actually pooling away from the pick-up.

hey gav, very interested to hear about this M+W CDI kit. what coils are you using with it? rough ballpark on cost? and also what ecu are you using? thanks mate. R