Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like the post says..

At the moment I have a wet acid battery in the boot of my R33, this is very bad. I have found a couple of little acid prevoked rust spots in the boot! Nothing serious, just 3 little cosmetic spots.. But it just goes to show that a much better battery is needed, one that doesn't vent!

Now the cooler climate is upon us, and the old battery is slowly dieing, and I need to upgrade it anyway..

Does anybody have contacts or websites where I can find a suitable replacement. I looked in the search and only found some old group buys and not alot else.

i got my dry cell years ago, just by going through a local battery mob (was approx $250 for battery and install)

never looked back

i got a heap of stereo gear bolted to the back wall of my r33 boot, so i need to minimise battery access

been all good so far!

hey bud try Battery world.. i had a optima D34 installed in my R33 boot on the side you will need to change terminals and a new bracket tho all up it was around the 550 mark...

i got my dry cell years ago, just by going through a local battery mob (was approx $250 for battery and install)
hey bud try Battery world.. i had a optima D34 installed in my R33 boot on the side you will need to change terminals and a new bracket tho all up it was around the 550 mark...

FARK ME!

I got new battery - mine is in the front like a normal car - cost around the 50 mark - HTH :laugh::(

good on ya!

got a sealed wet battery. Not totally what i wanted, but it will do. It bolted straight in!

3 of the dry cells i was offered had different posts, the other 2 were way to dear..

She starts first hit! Yeeeeeeeeharr!

ohh, now she has some real power.. the fuel pump is whinning! good thing I'm putting a new one in!

it never rains, it pours!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...