Jump to content
SAU Community

Bcu Boost Controler Spikeing

sickr33

By sickr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

sickr33 Rising Star

sickr33

Posted
Posted

hey i have a BCU+ boost controler on my r33

it holds boost fine at 7psi (low) and even at 11psi (high)

if i jump on the power in low revs it spools and holds 11psi fine but when i do a quick change or punch in above 4000 it spikes like crap to about 14-15psi

is this a tuneing issue or is it just shit?

the only reasion i have it was i got it really cheap

please help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220843-bcu-boost-controler-spikeing/
Share on other sites
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)
hey i have a BCU+ boost controler on my r33

it holds boost fine at 7psi (low) and even at 11psi (high)

if i jump on the power in low revs it spools and holds 11psi fine but when i do a quick change or punch in above 4000 it spikes like crap to about 14-15psi

is this a tuneing issue or is it just shit?

the only reasion i have it was i got it really cheap

please help!

Have you played with the gain, or are the settings out of the box (or auto) - list the the type of BCU and EBC you have. Did it only start doing this after your BCU and EBC? :)

Edited by GeeTR
sickr33 Rising Star

sickr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yer i have played with the gain and start boost but haven’t found a good combo

i had a turbosmart boost T before was spiking too!

the car has front mount intercooler

3" dump hiflow cat with 3.5" cat back

iridium plugs and splitfire coilpacks

i want to run about 12-13psi standard turbo but need to stop the spiking

anyone tuned one of these before

any suggestions?

the BCU+ boost controller can be seen here-

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Boost-Cont...115_p-79669.htm

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

LoL, i was quoting "BCU" to take the piss, butt they actually call it a "BCU" :):D

Checking the specs, id say its just a EBC :)

A spike is were boost overshoots target boost for a moment, then settles again, usually due to aggressive gain.

Does yours temporally hit 14, or does it stay rock solid at 14??

DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted

Its your gain mate.. What is it set on?

Its difficult to set up originally but put down about 6gain and then dial in 25 on the controller this should net you about 10psi

Dial up the boost to where you want it and then turn up the gain and floor it, take note when it starts to spike and turn the gain down.. then your set..

Make sure you've regapped your plugs to 0.8 too cheers

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

ok reading this makes me almost certain there's something wrong with my ebc ... it's set to 10psi but the lcd display shows number ranging from -99 up to low positives (it should go to 100 as that's 10psi on this ebc) , going up and down quickly (NEVER settles even for a second)

Weird thing is when they installed it at the shop and put the car on the dyno ..according to their graphs it was holding 10psi. Ah wtf. this is getting ridiculus ...the more money I spend the more problems creep up that I have no friggin idea how to fix.

sickr33 Rising Star

sickr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cheers guys i had a play with it for about an hour tonight and seems much better but still spiking

i got the start boost set on 10psi and the gain set at 60

its going straight to 11-12psi and holding great

but when i take it to 7000 and kick it into 2nd and jump back on the power it still spiking to 13.5-14psi

i got my warning set at 14psi and it hasn’t been going off

will play with the gain abit more tomorrow night to try to get it sweet

but if you have any advice on tuning it please tell!

ps. iridium plugs at 1.1mm seem fine as long as you have splitfire coils

  • 1 month later...
Lerlo Newbie

Lerlo

Posted
Posted

Hi, I know this thread if old but if your still having problems.

The BCU+ unit's start boost function works like this.

Lets say you set boost at 14psi, and start boost at 10psi, what it means is the wastegate will start to open 4 psi.

If boost is 10 and start is 10, it will open straight away.

Its quite a tough unit to tune, have been using it more than a year and the soilenoid stopped working on me today. Took it apart, gave it a nice clean and now its working beautifully again.

I find setting the gain from low then slowly increasing it till it holds boost till redline better, although many people go from up to down. And its sensitive as well, 1-2% gain makes alot of difference. Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...