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And yet....OEMs put both guages and lights into cars, fed by separate primary elements, for a reason. Oil pressure sensors fail at a significantly higher rate than oil pressure switches. When the HMI has 2 outputs, each with its own separate input, the redundancy makes it far more likely that the operator will notice a problem - particularly if one of those systems has a fault. I'll keep my oil pressure switch feeding the dash light, thanks. -
By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted
So after like 4 hours yesterday and quite a bit of troubleshooting. Come to find out there is a screw on the back of the serial 9 shifter that was screwed in too far from the factory and the manufacturer doesn’t say anything about it but it was stopping all the back gears because it was hitting that. I pulled the shifter out and went through the gears by hand and a vise grip (dont judge me, it was on a lift) and figured out that it wasn’t the trans. So we narrowed it down to the shifter -
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Oh you'll be surprised how much the motor breathes when it sees nearly 2 bar of boost. That will definitely pop, but for now, more than happy with 99.99% of the crank case fumes and engine shit going back into the intake. -
You'll likely find, you never really get pressure to pop that valve. If you are getting "pressure" it's going out the unrestricted hole before it hangs around to build up and pop the rubber flap. IE, it's headed for the intake pipe. In reality, if we did it right, your "vent" would actually go to a PCB valve at the inlet, and you'd still have the two the intake pipe too. When in vacuum, motor sucks it in, when on boost, PCB shut, and you will be getting enough air flow past (if they've put the catchcan pipe on the inlet in a good spot, at the right angle) which will create suction. Current setup in reality, you're just forcing it to the intake pipe.
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