Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seems my engine belts on my R32 GTS-t are squeaking when the engine is cold.

when i turn my headlights on it becomes louder.

would that be the alternator belt doing this because it's under more load when the headlights are on?

how much would it cost to get the 3 belts from nissan?

how much are the idlers/tensioners?

does anyone know the part numbers?

cheers,

dave.

Edited by dmr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222161-replacing-engine-belts/
Share on other sites

There is an online Gates catalogue that you can search by make and model. go to http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/ then 'Auto Aftermarket' then On Line CATALOGUE. You should be able to find any of the belts to suit the model and engine combos available.

The part numbers for Automotive Micro-V belts are pretty simple. a 4PK875 belt has 4 ribs, PK stands for automotive micro-V pitch, and 875 is the length in mm.

If you are trying to match an existing belt and you can't get the exact same nbumber don't stress. You will generally have a bit of adjustment to play with so as long as the belt is within 5-10mm either side then you'll be fine.

Edited by Fry_33

thanks for your replies guys.

are the belts on my engine the same length and width? can i get the same 3 belts?

also, i saw on the gates online catalouge 3 entries for my car:

SKYLINE (R32) 2.0L 4 Cyl. (RB20D, D-T) 1989-93 4PK860R

SKYLINE (R32) 2.0L 4 Cyl. (RB20D, D-T) 1989-93 4PK925R

SKYLINE (R32) 2.0L 4 Cyl. (RB20D, D-T) 1989-93 4PK945R

are these the 3 belts individually? other nissan models (GTR, silvia, pulsar) had only 1 or 2 entries.. i'm a bit confused.

thanks for your replies guys.

are the belts on my engine the same length and width? can i get the same 3 belts?

also, i saw on the gates online catalouge 3 entries for my car:

SKYLINE (R32) 2.0L 4 Cyl. (RB20D, D-T) 1989-93 4PK860R

SKYLINE (R32) 2.0L 4 Cyl. (RB20D, D-T) 1989-93 4PK925R

SKYLINE (R32) 2.0L 4 Cyl. (RB20D, D-T) 1989-93 4PK945R

are these the 3 belts individually? other nissan models (GTR, silvia, pulsar) had only 1 or 2 entries.. i'm a bit confused.

Basically if you have three belts on your car (ie. the AC has a seperate belt to the Power Steering Pump then the above belts are the ones you need. I just put R32, 1992 into the fields and it comes up with the following. This shows the different combinations possible. The belts you mentioned above are just the Racing construction versions of the last three (add an R to the part numbers below). The 4PK860R is 5mm shorter than the 4PK865 but it's fine.

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 3PK835 PS - w/ AC

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK865 Fan & Alt.

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK945 PS - w/o AC

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK925 AC

Good Luck

thanks heaps for your help Fry_33.

i'm going to go with:

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 3PK835R PS - w/ AC (since i have air con?)

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK865R Fan & Alt.

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK925R AC

does this sound right?

i prefer to go with the racing versions for the extra durability.

I don't know if there is even a 3PK835R, I don't recall seeing it in the Racing catalogue eariler. Not all sizes are available in the Racing construction.

You will need this regardless by the looks of things

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK865 Fan & Alt.

Then you will need this..

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 3PK835 PS - w/ AC (this single belt runs the PS AND the AC)

or these..

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK945 PS - w/o AC (this belt runs just the PS)

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK925 AC (this belt runs just the AC)

If you have three belts on your car then I think you'll have to run with the belt list you cam up with in post #5. You should be able to read what's on your crrent belts and that will help you to decide which ones to use. If you can't see part of the belt then just turn the engine over slightly without starting it. You can't put a 4 ribbed belt (4PK) onto a 3 ribbed (3PK) pulley. I have an RB25DET so I can't just look at mine to help you cause they're different.

Edited by Fry_33
I don't know if there is even a 3PK835R, I don't recall seeing it in the Racing catalogue eariler. Not all sizes are available in the Racing construction.

You will need this regardless by the looks of things

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK865 Fan & Alt.

Then you will need this..

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 3PK835 PS - w/ AC (this single belt runs the PS AND the AC)

or these..

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK945 PS - w/o AC (this belt runs just the PS)

1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK925 AC (this belt runs just the AC)

If you have three belts on your car then I think you'll have to run with the belt list you cam up with in post #5. You should be able to read what's on your crrent belts and that will help you to decide which ones to use. If you can't see part of the belt then just turn the engine over slightly without starting it. You can't put a 4 ribbed belt (4PK) onto a 3 ribbed (3PK) pulley. I have an RB25DET so I can't just look at mine to help you cause they're different.

thanks for the explanation buddy. i'll be buying them shortly. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...