Jump to content
SAU Community

Full Car Stereo System All Top Brand Producucts And Cheap

WHITE R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

WHITE R33 Enthusiast

WHITE R33

Posted
Posted

hey everyone I have a car stereo system that I was planning to use for my skyline but I have now sold the skyline and bought a XR6 TURBO which has a premium sound system, also you cant realy change the head unit in the XR6. The whole system has had around 4hrs use. It is all lagitt and it was all bought from Kang, Vin and Dan at JB HIFI NUNAWADING.

the splits are: 6" JL VR 2 way component speakers. part number VR600-CSi cost $290 new

the 4 chanel amp is: Alpine 4 chanel 100watts rms, the part number is MRP-F450 cost $550 new

the mono block amp is : Alpine digital mono block 600watts rms @ 2ohm, 1000 watts max, part number MRD-M605 cost $600 new

the 6x9's are: Pioneer 2 way kevlar coned 80 watts rms 350 watts max, the part number is TS-D691S cost $449 new

the sub's are: 2 kicker comp vr daul 2ohm voice coil sub woofer 400watts rms each 800watts peak power each. part number is CVR122 cost $660 new

the head unit is: JVC DVD/CD/MP3 etc player it is single din and has a 3" screen, it has every function you could ask for in a head unit, it has a fully motorized face, remote control etc etc, 3 audio rca out's and visual outs for head rest screens etc. Part number is KD-AVX11 cost $799 new (at the moment there down to $580 on sale)

the sub box is a aftermarket 2tone grey daul 12" box with 2 4" ports and it fits into the boot of an r32 verry neatly. cost $250 new

All the wireing and ditribution blocks etc are gold plated stinger items worth hundereds alone.

If you add up what it cost me the total works out too $3800!!!! I am happy to take offers around $2500 ono I think this is a verry fair price for what it is. I also am a stereo installer my self, I have my own buisness. I will do a basic install for who ever buys the system for free, also if you want to do a custom boot set up then I will do it for the cost of the products.

I will get pics up tonight. :):kiss:

WHITE R33 Enthusiast

WHITE R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Which part of Melbourne?? In the city?

Love to see the DVD/MP3 player.

eastern suburbs mate and ill get pics up asap just been flat out today.

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...