Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its been in the Forced Induction Forum for a while, but no one really knows what the requirements for engineering mods are, where to get them done and how much it all costs.

Anyone knows who I can go to (in Victoria) to get my mods certified? Or is this all a myth and are mods basicall outlawed?

Last thing I want is for a cop to look under the bonnet and go, "DEFECTED"

I want to be able to stick the canary up his big fat ass.

Ross

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22288-getting-mods-engineered/
Share on other sites

How much money you got?? Thats the question. I looked into it a little while ago and basically anything you do to change the intakeengineexhaust has an overall effect on the pollutionnoise output of the car. If you can get your modifications passes by an EPA test which consists of them putting it on a dyno and monitoring the by-products of your car whilst it's running then your home free but without megga $ I cant see how you could mod the car without increasing the amount of pollution the car produces without a restrictive exhaust system which kinda defeats the whole purpose. In short, if your going to mod your car then expect to be hassled if your pulled over so just play it smart and try not to attract too much unwanted atention and yes this means no sideways action down the highways or drifties round those corners :P

well what you need is if you have anything specific like Atmo blow off valve aircleaner ect that vent engine air to atmo you need a full S.H.E.D test...this is where they put the vehicle in an enclosed chamber and cook it and suck the air out and test the air for toxins ...they have to be a certain figure to pass...also technically for safety reasons if the car has over a certain amount of percentage of HP that the car has over the standard figure it must have brake tests done....Ford can conduct the shed test... its about 2500 to 3000 grand pass or fail.....they also have a drive cycle where they put the car on a dyno with a probe up its backside and simulate various driving conditions...I have been on a tour of there proving grounds when the my vehicle went for a shed/real time drive test....its quite interesting.....other than that if you need help you have to be more specific on the modifications that you have

Mods can be engineered...... but it still doesn't mean that you won't be defected. :D

You can be EPA'd at any time, and an engineers certificate will not get you out of the poo.... you need to prove yourself innocent.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...