R32 Gtr Suspension Set Up...

[robbieraver]

hey all,

over the past few months ive been fiddling with my suspension set up. (im a compulsive fiddler), im work in the trade(mecanical) so do you blame me AND i live near some great roads.

ive changed,

ride height - started at front 355mm, rear 345mm to 350mm front, 340mm rear (centre to top guard)

sway bar settings - front full hard them full soft then medium now full soft, rear medium now hard

alignment - played with toe out 1mm front to 0 toe and 2.30 neg front camber to 3.00 neg front camber, rear at 1.30neg and 1m toe in per side.

rims - different offsets, from 22 to 12

my final set up has been known to me for some time thanks to so much imput from here but i just wanted to find out for myself,

finnaly it drives like a gtr should,

ride height- front 350mm rear 340mm

sway bar- front full soft, rear full hard, 3 hole type

alignment- front 3 deg neg camber, 5 degree caster, 1mm toe out, rear 1.30 deg neg camber, 1mm toe in per side

rims- 12 offset.

tyres allways the same re55.

just wanted to share my enjoyment and my compusive fiddling, some changes have been good and some have been down right crap.

Edited June 21, 2008 by robbieraver

[Amec]

setup sounds like where you should have ended up after some experimentation to me

[robbieraver]

saturday night to many big glasses of the the good stuff, but you know what i ment.

[ali-turko]

sorry for the noobish question but is this setup for street or track

[robbieraver]

angry street set up, i live near the reefton/lake mountain roads, lots and lots of bends.

i know negative 3 degrees is a lot for the street but i like a sharp handling car with minimul understeer.

[Sydneykid]

Tow the rear out 2 mm each side, raise the rear ride height 5 mm and you won't have to run as much negative camber on the front so it will stop and accelerate better.

Cheers

Gary

[robbieraver]

changed it today, much better, but toe out i didnt think that would work, but it dose, especialy the 5mm higher in the rear.

[Sydneykid]

changed it today, much better, but toe out i didnt think that would work, but it dose, especialy the 5mm higher in the rear.

That's a well tested (since 1999) set up, so I am not surprised that it works

Cheers

Gary

[robbieraver]

i know i know, but i had to find out for myself.

its one thing the read how to set it up but i wanted to learn for myself in the real world, all it cost was my time..

cheers.

[GTR 400]

Hi sorry little of topic i have a r32 gtr and its lowered quite alot with Tein monoflex coil overs can someone please tell me what is the right aftermarket part to replace the rear upper camber arms, i was thinking of buying JIC brand but dont know if i get the bush type or pillow ball uppermount type?. I want to dial a little of the camber that i got when i lowered the car.

Cheers.

[benr32gtr]

hi ive gor 32gtr with g4 coilovers (10kg, 8kg i think) and tension rods swaybars arriving midweek, the car handles bad. low speed bounces in the rear around roundabouts and other sharp corners on gas (smooth road). what sort of setup should it have, i have increased the bound a little that seemed to smooth it out over bumps a bit. where r u measuring the ride height from i think one of my guards is a little off in shape. the ride height if i measure from the guard to centre wheel is 325mm front 320mm rear, front camber is 1.4 not adjustable do i need adjustable arms, front toe 2mm total, rear camber 2.20, rear toe 3.3mm total. what castor should it be set to havnt aligned yet wiht tension only just put in(drives the same wiht them). i need some hepl dont know what to set at.

[GTR 400]

Wow the Tein monoflexes come in 7kg front and rear the car handles awesome and to me and all my friends surprise is very comfortable for the street, i think your spring rates are a little to hard for the street, i am going by my experience with mine as before i purchased the coil overs i did alot of research on spring rates and generally anything over 7kg was going to be hard and bouncy for the street, all the best can anyone help me with my previous question on the rear upper camber arms please.

cheers.

[robbieraver]

hi ive gor 32gtr with g4 coilovers (10kg, 8kg i think) and tension rods swaybars arriving midweek, the car handles bad. low speed bounces in the rear around roundabouts and other sharp corners on gas (smooth road). what sort of setup should it have, i have increased the bound a little that seemed to smooth it out over bumps a bit. where r u measuring the ride height from i think one of my guards is a little off in shape. the ride height if i measure from the guard to centre wheel is 325mm front 320mm rear, front camber is 1.4 not adjustable do i need adjustable arms, front toe 2mm total, rear camber 2.20, rear toe 3.3mm total. what castor should it be set to havnt aligned yet wiht tension only just put in(drives the same wiht them). i need some hepl dont know what to set at.

i hate to say it but dump the g4's and get something else to start with. the spring rate and valving rate is WAY too harsh,the group buy for 32 gtr's with eibach springs is as about as goodas its gets with out spending big $$$$$$$, then raise the car 25mm front and 25mm rear.

2mm toe, is that in or out.

front camber, not enough, 2.30neg, offset bushes or arms required.

rear camber, too much back it off to 1.30 neg to flattern the tyre out for grip, you may need arms or offset bushes.

rear toe, 3.3 toe in or out.

caster, as much as you can get. 5-8 degrees would be nice.

[robbieraver]

almost for got,sway bars will be the best thing you can do.

springs and shocks are there to control the wheel movement, sway bars are there to controll the body roll.

[benr32gtr]

i cant get rid of the g4s i know they are vey harsh but ive only got them recently, going off the alignment printout it doesnt say negative so i assume it means out front and rear, going for the max castor does that twist the upper control arm or clap out the bushes, camber pins are near the cost of cheap adjustable control arms arnt they? if u set the damping on the g4s below about 10(out of 36) they can harldy control the spring so they have to be set fairly hard.

[robbieraver]

the problem with alot of W/A machines is there all not the same, eg toe in (+) wheel pointing in, toe out (-) wheel pointing out, going from what you have said its toe in, try (-).5mm toe out per side front, skylines hate toe in (+), makes the steering lasy/no feel and gtr's have aprox 2mm of (+) bump steer. rear, try 1mm of toe in (+) per side, it will keep the rear in check, some people perfer that feel.

caster, it will twist the upper arm but not to that extent, im running 5 degrees perside with noltec uper arms and no problem YET....

G4's, go ebay, they are just too hard the wheel will not be incontact with the road properly, and suspesion is there to controll the wheel,

bilstein and eibach, the eibachs are only 4kgmm rear and 5 kgmm front, this combo is very well controlled for the track and hills.

[Sydneykid]

hi ive gor 32gtr with g4 coilovers (10kg, 8kg i think) and tension rods swaybars arriving midweek, the car handles bad. low speed bounces in the rear around roundabouts and other sharp corners on gas (smooth road). what sort of setup should it have, i have increased the bound a little that seemed to smooth it out over bumps a bit. where r u measuring the ride height from i think one of my guards is a little off in shape. the ride height if i measure from the guard to centre wheel is 325mm front 320mm rear, front camber is 1.4 not adjustable do i need adjustable arms, front toe 2mm total, rear camber 2.20, rear toe 3.3mm total. what castor should it be set to havnt aligned yet wiht tension only just put in(drives the same wiht them). i need some hepl dont know what to set at.

At 325/320 you will have lots of bump steer, particularly at the rear. The camber curves will go postive due to the upper control arms being past parallel (to the road) at static height. Combine the bump steer with the camber moving towards positive as the suspension compresses and you have a recipe for a distinct lack of traction. A front camber kit ($183 on the Group Buy) and 2 rear camber kits ($123 on the Group Buy) will fix the camber problems. As Robbie said get some caster on it ($110) and flog those G4's to someone else.

BTW at 325/320 you will be losing around 25 bhp due to the accute driveshaft angles.

Cheers

Gary

[Sydneykid]

Hi sorry little of topic i have a r32 gtr and its lowered quite alot with Tein monoflex coil overs can someone please tell me what is the right aftermarket part to replace the rear upper camber arms, i was thinking of buying JIC brand but dont know if i get the bush type or pillow ball uppermount type?. I want to dial a little of the camber that i got when i lowered the car.

Cheers.

This thread explains my thoughts on adjustable arms

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...tml&hl=arms

To which I would add, if you change the rear upper control arms you have to also change the traction arms and adjust them in tandem. Otherwise you will end up with a gross amount of bump steer. Plus you should keep in mind that aftermarket arms still use the standard (soft, rubber, worn out) bushes in the uprights (hubs). So you have a solid spherical in the inner joint and mushy rubber in the outer joint, not a good mix.

The rear camber kits we use (Noltec or Whiteline) can be used to replace all of the buhes with polyurethane and enable adjustment of BOTH the upper control arm and the traction rod, hence removing the above problems.

Cheers

Gary

[benr32gtr]

i called just jap today, i got the g4s off them, they said the front spring rate is 12.1kg and the rear is 7.2kg, i can get softer springs one of them said put the rear springs on the front and get 6kg for the rear, then another guy said the car would be to soft on the front reckoned it would be no good. what do u sk and robbie think about changing the spring rates on them. i dont want to sell them coz i wouldnt get much for em cant afford new coilovers. i know they are basic.

[robbieraver]

simply, dont do it,

the g4's will be valved to suit a small window if spring rate, plus or minus 2kg in rate, when you go outside this specified rate the shock cannot control the spring.

a basic working of a shock is there are shims in the shock body that let oil flow thru at a certain speed, this inturn lets the spring be contolled, this also is matched to the spring rate and that is why you cant put any spring on any shock(very short version)