Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will reprogram a 300ZX ECU for my RB25DET / Silvia, cause I can't find a R33 one(I live in Canada), and cause I can't reprogram R33.

So my question is, what are the stock timing map like?

I guess it will be very close to RB20DET , does it make sense?

I already got the RB20DET...but I would prefer to make sure that they are like RB25DET.

Also, does anybody as the firing order for RB25DET ? (I have to compare with a 300ZX engine..if there are not the same, I will switch injector and coil pack wiring.

There is an R33 Ecu for sell on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...&category=31250

Try getting 95 model as they have better fuel maps. I got 204 rwKw with stock 95 model ECU and stock turbo.

Lippo: Yes, it will probably go better with a 95 model ECU

S14Drift: The Daughterboards are not easily available and expensive. Badbiki doesn't have one, they are more complicated. You can get a new Hitachi H8-534 CPU from www.grid.co.jp and program it with new maps but it's like $300 windowed (reprogrammable) CPU and that's not all you need.

Originally posted by TomR33

You can get a new Hitachi H8-534 CPU from www.grid.co.jp and program it with new maps but it's like $300 windowed (reprogrammable) CPU and that's not all you need.

Sorry but I don't read japanese....

I have an eprom programmer, eprom eraser...and all that, I have been tuning SR20DET in Montreal(Canada) for almost a year now...

I can get a 300ZX ECU for less than 100 Aus...and then reprogram it... so paying 100$ for something I can't retune doesn't make sense to me.

Did the R32 RB20DET had the VTC too ? if so I can probably buy on of these (cause the have eprom on board) and tune that?

I would prefer a RB ECU for only one reason, they have 2 knock sensor input...and the 300 ZX only has 1....

S14Drift:Try this if you can't read Japanese, it will give you a rough English translation: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...ml%2F28_07.html

The Rb20DET don't have VCT. That is the biggest problem in adapting Rb20DET ECU to RB25DET engine. Some people have done it by adding an additional board with a specially programmed PIC microcontroller and a transistor to control VCT.

Would you be able get me one of those 300ZX ECUs for less than $100 AUD?

Originally posted by TomR33

Would you be able get me one of those 300ZX ECUs for less than $100 AUD?

The best place is Ebay.com

There is a lot of these ECU for sale (at least 3 to 5 per week), some went for 38 $ US, and the last one I missed went for 43$ US...

If people don't want to ship it to Australia, I could have it ship here in Canada, then ship it back to you :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...