Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Im only new to this as i just bought an r 33 gtst 4 door. But i put a set of blade rims from bob jane t-marts on and i ended up with a massive chunk taken out of the left front wheel. Tottaly stuffed had to buy a whole new rim cost 395 dollars real annoyed. Anyway when i drive it sounds like a deep whining noise around 50 to 60 ks maybe the axel is bent or just wondering if anyone would know about this. its only done 60,000 ks so nothing wrong with the engine. any help would be great cheers.

scottyboy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/
Share on other sites

dont actually know what happened but its the front left and i dont think that it is the diff because it is only when i get to a little bit of a higher speed that the noise occurs. i might just have to get it checked out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3969178
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like you hit soimething which caused the rim damage.

The noise sounds like the impact has "bruised" the bearing. The noise will get worse, and eventually your wheel will probably fall off....this will damage the rim again and you will need to buy a 6th one :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3971907
Share on other sites

i sort of agree with bard get your alignment bearings and other steering style stuff checked (cheaper than a new rim)

oh and its ok if you dont tell us about that curb you jumped ( i neglect to mention my motorsports "incidents" all the time)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3974448
Share on other sites

Wheel bearing gone? Or on its way out?

If this is the case, eventually the wheel will sieze up and not rotate any more.

Pretty easy to replace, pull of wheel, take of the brake rotor, and replace them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3975569
Share on other sites

cheers car is going in for a service tomorrow so it will be fixed. i didnt say that i didnt hit a curb i just don't remember doing it. anyway was told by my mechanic the same thanks for the reply

cheers Scottyboy

ps i wasn't drunk as i don't drink. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3982912
Share on other sites

hey was just teasin bout the curb hope it all works out well

i had problems with a vibration at 80-100 kph for ages that i couldnt find (mechanics/ wheel blokes/ suspension blokes either) finally went away when i replaced some stearing bushes when i installed the swaybars go figure

and lets not even go into motorsport "incidents"

luck aye

GWP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3987573
Share on other sites

na its all sweet now the mechanics that i go to found it. it was just wheel Bearing, but they said that they called nissan in osbourne park and that it was going to cost me 400 dollars because i had to order the hub as well. Anyway they did some research for me and just found the bearing s under 100 dollars so its all good now run s like a charm cheers guys,

cheers scottyboy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225253-just-new/#findComment-3989863
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...