Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm still learning my ways around my GTR and am wondering if it's a good idea to reset the ECU now that the car is in Australia. I'm thinking that would good to do due to the higher altitude (I live at 600m above sea level - higher than where GTR came from), the poorer fuel RON count, the different temperatures and also the pod filters etc...

...and much more that I'm probably not aware off haha!

Are these some good points for doing a reset?

I take it that, from other posts, that all you need to do is to disconnect the battery and then bleed any remaining power from the system by stomping on the anchors a couple times (as opposed to waiting 24hrs).

I also read that when you reconnect the juice you should then drive the GTR nice and hard through it's paces so that it learns the engine well. What sort of driving should I be doing? Gears, max rpms....speed???

Also, should I do it on a cold or hot engine as I like to let the car idle for a minute or longer on cold mornings (4 degrees at the momment)

Please advise ;-)

Cheers,

Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225415-r33-gtr-ecu-reset/
Share on other sites

Damn that's not good...and that was entirely caused by the Japanese original tune that only suited it's life in Japan? Ok, well I might get onto one of the local tuners here and see what they can do...I'm not sure if simply disconnecting the battery is a bit rough haha!

If your ECU is only a factory one, u wont need to get your fuel mapped etc . As its essentially non programmable. Just reset the ecu , the eCU will self learn with the new environment. If you want put it on a dyno to get a base power figure, so that you can compare it to your future mods.

DLOOOK, yeh I thought as much. Do I need to do something with the steering as well...like this full left to right lock etc etc? Or can I just drive off with it and it'll do the rest as I go? I probably should have reset the thing a while ago!

Ok thanks!

Nope, mine has no mods at all...it just has a set of mags and that's it haha! I ended up in court with my GTST so I just left the GTR stock. It doesn't even have an exhaust =P

Yep, they probably did have it disconnected but doesn't it take almost a day or so for the juice to drain out of the system leaving the ECU with a blank slate? I'll see how it goes anyway.

(that's without pumpin the brakes etc)

Hmm dunno about the pic...I don't know if the moderators let you put up pr0n :D

...that's mine in the avatar.

Edited by tommis85

Yeah true, resetting the ecu will make it adapt to the new fuel, but, if you car by chance has a piggy back chip on it that was installed in Japan, like mine, then you will want to get it dissabled and get everything checked so you can be sure that your freshly reset ecu wont be controlled by a nasty Jap Chip.

Edited by steven22

Hi Steven, would this chip be visible as in being plugged in along side it or is it hidden inside the ECU, integrated with the circuitry? I might crawl in their and have a look first. Mine was 100% stock when it came over...it only had a turbo timer in it and that's it. It has proven genuine k's and also nothing in the engine bay was changed for when it came over ie. pod filters replaced with airbox for compliance etc.

Yeh, I'm thinking it will be best for aussie fuel and the altitude (lower air pressure / lower density for AFM to read and mix etc) I live at - should be most noticeable in those areas.

Does your GTR have the Nissan smoke screen feature when you drive *enthusiastically* ??

Dan, haha yeh just the richness mate. They run immensely rich don't they? It would be interesting to see what sort of millage they have when you up it.

I actually do have another little problem but I might put it up in a new post - it's also what made me start thinking about resetting the ECU. I'll put a link in here for it when I post it up for you guys.

Edited by tommis85

Ah ok man....well, perhaps it would be better if I let my mechanic have a look at it so that I don't bugger something up? See what happens I guess....it shouldnt be too bad hehe - why would they chip my totally stock GTR?

Are you referring to one of those gay 30hp chips that people fall for and get installed in their commies?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...