Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, Im pretty confident my rear turbo is dead but im after some opinions. Before I completly rip them off this weekend.

HKS 2530S on GTR.

Makes first dyno run fine on low boost making around 370, then switced it onto high for the power run. Car makes no boost what so ever. You can normally hear the turbos spinning when the car is cooling down, but now one is really loud and sounds like its dragging something and makes and whinging noise when it trys to come onto boost, workshop said it was the turbo so I think it is. I limped it home with no boost and parked her up. Car drives fine, no smoke ect.

Turbos have seen around 1 bar for the last 3 years and were in good nick when last inspected.

Cheers,

Clint

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230033-blown-hks-2530/
Share on other sites

If you can hear an audible change, then its pretty much highly likely.

Shouldnt have driven it home though, could have aggrovated the damage to housings and things where they might have been touch-up machineable.

Boost or no boost, turbos are still spinning (or attempting too) soon as the motor is started.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230033-blown-hks-2530/#findComment-4042233
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...