Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

spoke to andrew in spare parts at bayside nissan and was midly dissapointed to hear he had never heard of a nissan Stagea before..... lol any way, priced up some OEM coil packs and he says thy have r33 coilpacks in stock for $212 per single coil pack....... just for info guys. ( i was asking for S2 Skyline r33 GTST )

Edited by loymclure
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231018-oem-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

just curiose to know if there is any real evidence that OEMS are the way to go, like i know there are 1000000000000 threads written about this topic but they are all a tad light on facts. would be super curiouse to find out if the OEM Coil Packs are better then splitfires or if its just the wank factor and people who can afford OEM ones will tell ya they are heaps better because they have spent twice the amount needed for splitfires.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231018-oem-coil-packs/#findComment-4059681
Share on other sites

if yours are buggered, either replace one by one from a 2nd hand set (find them for $100 max), use hi temp industrial strength silicon sealant all the way around each coil pack to help reduce the wasted spark

but for $500, splitfires would be a far greater buy then stock Oem coilpacks at over double the price

double the price would not guarantee any better performance, not even 0.5% better. aint worth it.

splitfires for newies

or silicon around the old stockies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231018-oem-coil-packs/#findComment-4059730
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...