Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ecu is programmed to send fuel to ports on start up without need for touching throttle.

I would think if u need to do this id say ignition timing could be too retarded uumm what does your cars rev at when its cold?

Maybe sticky Idle air control sensor which is on the plenum sorry dont know how to check it tho!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-43184
Share on other sites

Guest Boxhead

its not neccesarily cold starts that make myn not start.. its at my place.. wont start first try of teh day...

but when i was in sydney, i noticed where i parked the car.. it was downhill.. not slightly up hill.. so maybe that has somethin to do with it...

in sydney, on even freezing cold days, would start straight away

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-43209
Share on other sites

I dont know about skylines because I havent got the same problem with mine, but in my old GTi corolla I had problems with starting it codl or hot, I would have to pump the accelerator to get it to fire..

After I gave it a service and a *new set of plugs* it started beutifully..

Give it a go..pull your plugs and see what they look like, check the gap. If they're no good replace them and see what happens..

If it still doesnt work then u may as well give your car to me....:D

hope it helps..

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-43317
Share on other sites

The ignition barrel has two wires coming from it when you turn the key to the "start" position. One wire goes the starter motor, the other wire goes to pin 43 of your engine control unit.

When you turn the key to the start position, the ECU senses that you are attempting to start the engine by using the starter motor, not attempting to roll start the engine. Since using the starter motor demands a bit over 100 amps of current, your battery voltage falls quite dramatically. To compensate for this, the ECU makes the injector pulses much wider to get the fuel into the motor. It may not do this if you have your foot on the accelerator so it could even be the throttle position sensor faulty or misadjusted.

If you had an alarm installed when the problem started occuring, take it back to the butchers... oops I mean installers who fitted your alarm and have them correct it.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-43577
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
Originally posted by macka

you run 11;1 with the to4 Adam?

14psi im getting 13:1 bad news 4 me

Cant even remember saying that :P

13:1 full load is pretty lean

Most guys agree with anything under 12:1 safe

After i fit my fuel pump in it brought it back down to 10.2:1 and then tuned to 11.6:1 roughly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-115954
Share on other sites

My 32 GTSt also starts badly when cold. Can usually get it to go first try now, but sometimes 2. Ive just got mine back from having 2 exhaust valves done so its got all new plugs in it, theres NO internal issues with the motor. Still starts badly

Ive been told this is a common thing with cars that have had remapped ECU's or aftermarket ones. Many have cold start features removed. Mine is a Blitz Access ECU.

After doing 2 exhaust valves in cylinder 6 and ingesting an electrode, my advice to anyone out there wanting to run 1 bar with a stock intercooler is, DONT.

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-116193
Share on other sites

Originally posted by red17

My 32 GTSt also starts badly when cold. Can usually get it to go first try now, but sometimes 2. Ive just got mine back from having 2 exhaust valves done so its got all new plugs in it, theres NO internal issues with the motor. Still starts badly

Ive been told this is a common thing with cars that have had remapped ECU's or aftermarket ones. Many have cold start features removed. Mine is a Blitz Access ECU.  

After doing 2 exhaust valves in cylinder 6 and ingesting an electrode, my advice to anyone out there wanting to run 1 bar with a stock intercooler is, DONT.

Red17

You dont think that it would of still happened if u were running lower boost or a FMIC?

Well at least your back on the road..

I would hope tuners like Blitz wouldnt remove the cold start function on your ecu because its not to anyones advantage..but i guess its possible.

I have found when my timing is retarded slightly i have this problem, I assume its been checked but if you run abit more....18 degrees it may fix it..

just a thought

cheers

mac

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-116344
Share on other sites

Mine splutters every now and again on cold starts.

I tried turning the ignition to the on position for a couple of seconds and then starting but it did the same.

Slight splutter then up come the rev's.

Also on the note of AF's.

When i had mine on the dyno with the new fuel pump on 15psi she was down at around 10.5:1.

Is that normal for a 32 with a stock turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2341-cold-starts/#findComment-116352
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...