Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make:Proton Satria GTi 2000 model

Milage: 102000 klms

Transmission: Manual

Colour: Silver

Location: Sydney

Currently registered: Yes till july 09

Price: $9000 Mark but am negoitable (Might be intersted in swap/trade Intersted let me no what you got)

Contact: Pm Me or post reply if intersted

Comments / Modifications:

Car is in good condition minor scratches

1 dent in the back of the car

Interior is immaculate no rips or tears

Everything works very cold Air con

Tyres and brakes only 5 months old

Never missed a beat

Motor Gearbox and clucth in great conditon

Timming belt being done

Car has lotus suspension and handling

Also recaro bucket seats

1.8litre Twin cam motor car goes very well

Car is completely standard besides a K&N Panel filter only 3 weeks old

Only 102000 klms

Cost me $55 to fill up on premiem 98 and get about 420-450 klms per tank

post-29245-1222231119_thumb.jpg

post-29245-1222231134_thumb.jpg

post-29245-1222231150_thumb.jpg

post-29245-1222231166_thumb.jpg

post-29245-1222231187_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237395-proton-satria-gti/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...