Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kodak Silver gold cd's are very good for mp3 / vcd burning. Nero is very good for mp3 application. What player do you have? I have the same prob burning ripped vcd clips, some work fine, others are a bit scratchy. sometimes it can be blammed on what speed they were ripped at origionally, and how you computer decodes them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-508789
Share on other sites

it shouldn't matter what program u use to record mp3 .. as long as it follows the right format .. or am i getting the topic wrong?? if u're really worried about quality ... then u should burn at the slowest prossible speed ... when listening to mp3 its very very noticeable when a disc is scratched .. the errors are very obvious and not easy to hide ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-508823
Share on other sites

The biggest problem with car mp3 is when you have a mixed CD to play. Between the mixed songs is a pause that is very frustrating and bad to listen to.

When making the mp3 (if you guys do this) - make sure to rip the mixed cd into *one* file - EAC (exact audio copy) is brilliant for this because it also rips *digitally* ensuring highest possible quality. Use the copy range function. If you don't use EAC currently, after using it and hearing the difference you won't go back and you won't accept 'popping' in you rips.

Be sure also to use LAME mp3 encoder with VBR (variable bit rate) to encode a cd with exact quality as original (according to our human hearing). EAC will automatically set you up with the correct LAME settings to achieve this.

Here's a bunch or URL's to get you started:

Lame d'load

http://home.pi.be/~mk442837/

EAC d'load

http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/

A little bit of information about the combination

http://www.afterdawn.com/articles/archive/...ydeneaclame.cfm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-508840
Share on other sites

cd audio can be played right after each other, but mp3's cannnot due to their file system

no matter what program u use, an mp3 will not play directly after each other.

i also have the problem, mixes that go onto the next song i burn on audio cd.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-508912
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

so how do u guys manage the cd? with about 150 songs it gets pretty messy ... and with my deck its can take a long time if its not organised into files ... hehehe ... another thing annoying is when u listen to chinese music or something similar the deck can't display chinese characters ... annoying .. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-524196
Share on other sites

Depending on the player you can get a crossfade plugin. This fades the previous tracks last few seconds and the next tracks few seconds together and creates a much nicer transition than the usual harsh stop/start.

Not sure about car based mp3 head units, but certainly winamp (used to use it when i ran windows) and xmms (using this at the moment) have the plugins availability.

I'm not sure about xbox media player, but I'm sure its been done and thats what ill be running... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-524342
Share on other sites

I forgot to ask..

I've been using cdparanoia and lame with the highest quality VBR mode for ages - works very well. How does cdparanoia compare to this EAC - Torrens?

I have found that cdparanoia is EXCELLENT for ripping less than perfect audio cd's. It has many many options and can be set to attempt to rip a track indefinitely until it succeeds.. it will retry and retry to read the scratched part of the disk - and most of the time it eventually gets there - though it used to take quite a while on the old 2 and 4 speed drives.... It has been around for a very long time..

From the man page (yes it is linux based EDIT: though apparently its multiplatform - I've only used it in Linux and maybe some of the BSD's - dont remember):

CDPARANOIA(1)                                                    CDPARANOIA(1)

NAME

      cdparanoia  (Paranoia  release III) - an audio CD reading utility which

      includes extra data verification features

DATE

      version III release alpha 9.8 (02 Mar 2001)

SYNOPSIS

      cdparanoia [options] span [outfile]

DESCRIPTION

      cdparanoia retrieves audio tracks from CDDA capable CDROM drives.   The

      data  can  be  saved  to  a file or directed to standard output in WAV,

      AIFF, AIFF-C or raw format.  Most ATAPI, SCSI and  several  proprietary

      CDROM drive makes are supported; cdparanoia can determine if the target

      drive is CDDA capable.

      In addition to simple reading, cdparanoia adds extra-robust data  veri-

      fication,  synchronization,  error  handling and scratch reconstruction

      capability.

More Info: http://www.xiph.org/paranoia/

I use GRIP to tie these both together and do all the CDDB fancy stuff - ends up being really easy. I found it was much harder trying to sort out the shareware and stuff in windows..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-524354
Share on other sites

I've been using cdparanoia and lame with the highest quality VBR mode for ages - works very well. How does cdparanoia compare to this EAC - Torrens?

I haven't seen (or should that be heard?) paranoia in action so its difficult to make a comment.

EAC is the ripper of choice for Win32 - as it does rip digitally unlike all other rippers.

Seriously people, your simple rippers might seem easy and quick, but you're really missing out on some quality rips - I mean like perfect quality rips. If the source rip is imperfect, the final mp3 is going to imperfect and worse too. You will find the pops and clicks unacceptable. Yes, you can notice the difference.

Also VBR is the best for sound reproduction, which is more important for those who are looking for quality over the 10% or so filesize difference.

I recommend using it for yourself, and doing a comparison - you won't turn back, and you won't accept inferior rips again.

For those who use winamp / media player and have pissy little speakers (i.e. non hi-fi type equipment), try DFX (digital sound processor) - great enahancment in sound.

fxsound.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-525212
Share on other sites

Yeah, I did some research on cdparanoia - looked at their website etc.

Seems the latest stable release is some years old.. some things just dont need to be improved :)

According to their site, it does a direct digital copy and even talks about Exact Audio Copy in some very technical discussion regarding the way it attempts to read the data off the disc.

Seems cdparanoia is still the way to go on linux and EAC seems ace for windows ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-525267
Share on other sites

What sort of VBR settings are you using? VBR is still pretty new to me.. haven't really encoded a lot of MP3's in the last few years.

It still amazes me how quick you can create MP3's now days. Back when I was really into it, I would have to encode an album overnight to get really good quality.. go the latest and greatest pentium 150.. ;)

I use the following lame settings:

-q 0 or -q 2 -> highest quality algorithms .. not sure of a huge difference here

-V 0 -> highest VBR quality

Be interested in finding out what other people use..

By the way - file size does not concern me at all.. I'm actually interested in playing with flac (lossless compression - ie. exact reproduction)- hdd is so cheap nowdays, who cares :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-525288
Share on other sites

i don't understand why variable bit rate is better ... i'm assuming that it means when the song gets encoded, a higher bitrate is used when it is needed and lower bitrate when its not needed .. now if u use a high bit rate all the time then it doesn't matter right?? am i correct??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23753-mp3-recording/#findComment-525369
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...