Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After 6 years with this car, it's time we part ways. It has been always looked after and serviced every 5,000kms.

Truly in immaculate condition that has to been seen.

The engine was rebuilt with forged internals only 5,000kms ago.

The front and rear seats have been professionally retrimmed with tan leather. The car has been professinoaly lowered using whiteline suspension.

$12,980 with RWC PRICE DROP NOT NEGOTIABLE - NO OFFERS THIS PRICE IS ONLY VALID UNTIL NOV 8, after that it's going back up to 13.5k

November 1997 S14a High Spec Luxury - Automatic

Factory body kit, Dual air bags and Sunroof

*Performance Upgrades

-Rebuilt Engine with Forged Internals

-Front Mount Intercooler with a clever custom install so as to keep the factory fog lights

-Full 3" Exhaust with twin tip 3" Xforce muffler

-Pod Air Filter

-Cold Air Intake

-040 Bosch fuel pump

-Whiteline Suspension

-17" BEO Japanese Wheels

*Audio

-Pioneer MP3 Player

-Cadence & JL Speakers

*Accessories

-Rare genuine nismo clear indicators

-Genuine Nissan 200sx floor mats

-HKS Turbo Timer

-Boost Gauge

IMG_1511web.jpg

IMG_1537.jpg

IMG_1539.jpg

IMG_0167.jpg

4210824.jpg

4210786.jpg

*** THE200 Plates not included, can be purchased separately for $1,000. I will supply standard issue Victorian plates with the vehicle & RWC***

Call 0421139578

Edited by jungle_s14a

manual conversion is 1.5k, I can arrange this for you if you require. Although this auto gearbox has been fitted with a shift kit so you may just want to keep it as is (faster then a manual equivalent car) - it's a bloody quick shifting box at the moment - and a pleasure to drive in traffic!

The price is extremely cheap, on carsales stock s14a high spec luxury models start at 15.5k. It is really priced to sell!

For you guys who aren't familiar with the differences you get on a high spec luxury here's a quick list:

Sunroof

Front lip, side skirts, spoiler

Premium sound system (Ive upgraded this anyway)

Dual Air Bags

ABS

Fog Lights

etc

These cars retailed at 52k brand new, the most expensive 200sx ever sold in Australia. They are not a grey import, rather sold by Nissan Australia through dealers. I have the full service history from new.

manual conversion is 1.5k, I can arrange this for you if you require. Although this auto gearbox has been fitted with a shift kit so you may just want to keep it as is (faster then a manual equivalent car) - it's a bloody quick shifting box at the moment - and a pleasure to drive in traffic!

Its really tempting mate. By the way whats the shift kit? Is it the same as trip tronic?

Also if converted to manual, would it cause any probs with engine later on or anything. can a 6 speed be linked with this?

Still works out cheaper to buy this car and convert to manual.

Selling my car next monday (fingers crossed, finance pending) so may thing about this.

a shift kit makes the auto change gears really fast.. LIKE REALLY REALLY FAST! to the point where at full throttle the car launches itself forward through gear changes. This allows the car to have amazing acceleration and can drop a quarter mile time by about half a second.

You can put a 6psd s15 gearbox, but most people would opt to put in a s14 5spd as they are known to be stronger and an overall better gearbox.

You would not have any engine problems with converting it, all 200sx's s14/s14a/s15 are virtually identical under the bonnet. In the factory they simply bolt up which ever transmission the car was ordered in. It has been done many many time by people on these forums and on nissansilvia.com - My mate even did it on his s15. One advantage with converting it is that the auto's have a 3.9 diff whilst the manuals have a 3.7. So the auto diff allows for a faster acceleration even after the car has been converted to manual.

On anther note, the engine has just recently been rebuilt with forged internals. The engine is brand new with only 5,000kms on it!! The engine built with forged pistons, rods etc costs 6-8k alone!!

Edited by jungle_s14a

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...