Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am not after a full translation here.

I simply want to know the basic details listed that I assume are the extras on the car. I can see ETC and figure that's talking about the E-Toll thingo that was stuck to the dash.

The writing and lines pointing to the area just behind the front guards I assume is indicating the "dents" from being incorrectly jacked or lifted on a hoist at some stage.

So basically anything on the lines next to the picture or what is described in the picture would be great.

Thanks heaps in advance to anybody that can help out.

I probably should point out that I am expecting it to list a few items like the stereo, remote, Turbo Timer, Strut Brace, E-Toll thingo, Aftermarket Wheel, CD Stacker.

0613211.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243289-import-sheet-translation/
Share on other sites

Ignoring the features, which I presume you already know about, it says there is a bit of wear and tear inside, sides of the driver's seat are crinkled/worn (no surprises there).

It does say there's rust underneath, so just make sure you get some pics so you know how bad it is - the translation is typically Japanese ambiguous, so it could be totally minor.

After that, just small scratches and dents here and there around the car. The B1s on the side are probably pin dents on the doors, that's not under the car - the 1 means it's minor. Paint is aftermarket job, not factory white, if you didn't know that already. I imagine it would be fairly tidy around the outside, reading off the sheet.

Edited by Iron Chef

There is minimal surface rust under the car. Mostly on the lower edges of the sills.

Pin dents on the doors?? Spent the whole day detailing it yesterday and could only find two stone chips that had been touched up. The mirrors and bonnet and boot lips are pretty average in the paint department, maybe thats what they are referring too?? Both the lips actually look like they were painted with a brush rather than sprayed.

I personally believe that its in pretty damn good condition so the people doing these survey sheets must be pretty damn fussy with their job.

I probably should have put that I already have the car here at home with me. I was just trying to nut out what it says on this sheet so I can include it with all the other doculments I have that detail my whole importing experience. Call me fussy but I like to keep everything neat and organised. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...