Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I've got a bit of an issue with my boost.

I have a '99 S2 Stagea with 61000kms on it - and stock apart from a turbo timer.

It appears that I get 7lb of boost instead of the stock 5lb right from about 2500rpm - no complaints there, but after about 5 mins of driving it won't go over 5lb boost and is dropping back to 4lb boost at 5000rpm and feels 'lame' to drive and slow to build boost.

Now the funny thing, if I pull over and turn off engine and restart I get 7lbs boost again and is 'snappy' to drive for about 5 mins.

I've tested this quite a few times - the ignition must be turned off and not just letting the motor idle down and I get back the 7lb boost again.

First I thought it may be the cheap(looking) boost gauge so I rigged up another but they both read the same.

So I've been told(by local mechanics) it's

1) turbo is stuffed

2) fuel pump on it's way out

3) ECU playing up

Any ideas would be appricated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243682-boost-issues/
Share on other sites

i wouldn't have said any of those things. i'd be looking at the factory boost solinoid. it may be on it way out and playing up. or it already has the 'high' boost mod done on it, where you ground out one of the wires, and the grounded wire hasn't got a good ground connection.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243682-boost-issues/#findComment-4246403
Share on other sites

I've had a look at the boost solinoid and all appears to be stock, no extra wire/s and all hoses look to be in stock position but I'll disconnect it and test it a bit later.

But why do I loose boost at higher rpms - drops down to 4lbs?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243682-boost-issues/#findComment-4246508
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...