Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.. just a quick question

im getting my car dyno tuned and a vipec installed on friday, and getting the boost control set to 10 and 16psi.

car is a

96 s2 rb25det

kkr 430 turbo

fmic

just wondering if im gonna run out of fuel when shes all tuned up and running schmick, a mate has said i might with the power il be running

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245203-will-i-need-injectors-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

hey guys.. just a quick question

im getting my car dyno tuned and a vipec installed on friday, and getting the boost control set to 10 and 16psi.

car is a

96 s2 rb25det

kkr 430 turbo

fmic

just wondering if im gonna run out of fuel when shes all tuned up and running schmick, a mate has said i might with the power il be running

thanks!

don’t expect much power from the kk430, i'd look out for boost issues if your running a internal wastegate?

you will need a new fuel pump eg: 040 or walbro, injectors will run very close to max and your AFM will max out if your going to run 16psi

i suggest:

bosh 040 or walbro

bigger injectors

z32 AFM

keep us updated, keen to see the end result

here is a recent build that i just finished for a friend of mine, might give you some good info.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...st-t239039.html

cheers!

:(

yeh mate internal wastegate at the moment, iv been well informed about the boost issues. read your thread too.

at the moment going off my boost guage it doesnt go past 12psi, reckon that will be a problem? mate said he has seen them creep to 18psi :S

also with the ecu im getting (vipec) it doesn't use an AFM, its map sensored or whatever its called (don't really know much at all about this - anyone who is bored feel free to explain it to me, i need to do alot of reading over the next few days !).

So you think il need a new fuel pump definitely, il see how it goes on the dyno and post results etc over the weekend!\

oh by the way all the work is being done at godzilla motorsport

yeh mate internal wastegate at the moment, iv been well informed about the boost issues. read your thread too.

at the moment going off my boost guage it doesnt go past 12psi, reckon that will be a problem? mate said he has seen them creep to 18psi :S

also with the ecu im getting (vipec) it doesn't use an AFM, its map sensored or whatever its called (don't really know much at all about this - anyone who is bored feel free to explain it to me, i need to do alot of reading over the next few days !).

So you think il need a new fuel pump definitely, il see how it goes on the dyno and post results etc over the weekend!\

oh by the way all the work is being done at godzilla motorsport

i'd be very surprised if you don’t get boost creep, they all do it and just unavoidable.

with the supporting mods, your fuel pump may or may not be enough you just don’t know in what condition it's in. this also comes down to reliability, why would you want to risk your car leaning out and causing serious damage to your engine which will result in a rebuild.

same goes for your injectors, you will be running them on max and it’s just not safe and will limit the amount of boost you can run.

if your going with the MAP sensor option there is no need for a AFM so no need to worry about that then.

i suggest you go with a bigger pump and injectors to ensure you have enough fuel to keep it safe and to achieve the desired result.

:ph34r:

i'm in the same boat but i have a power fc and kkr480, i was looking at injector and pump for it.

Can you change it to be externally wastegated??

pretty sure you can weld it up so that it requires an external, dont ask me how though lol.

just been looking at turbos to buy and saw a couple that had been made into external.

Ps good luck with the build up existence, definatley replace the pump atleast (old and worn out) mine is about to crap itself and im only running bit above stock power.

be best to keep an eye on the fueling side as well so get yourself a decent fuel pump and injectors.

my 34 has the mods listed below in my sig my im maxing out my stock injectros and it pings at high boost so upgrading them next week to 480cc. better to be safe then sorry mate.

save up a little more dosh and get it done properly. get yourself a highflow fuel pump and decent injectors. fuel pumps are not that pricey its the injectors that are the killer, but its better to have everything and take it and et it all tuned at once as you will be saving on getting the injectors tuned again.

if your interested in injectros check out power flow injections here in melbourne. they quoted me $840 for 480cc injectors for my 34 http://www.powerflowinjection.com/ and so far they have been the cheapest.

so ye get you pump and injectors first before you try and tune it for high boost or you will end up spending more money on a rebuild.

or if you really really really wanna get it put on asap put it all in but tune it to a safe boost so around 200rwkw till you can afford to upgrade the injectors and pump

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...