Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Or Afm

bugz

By bugz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bugz Apprentice

bugz

Posted
Posted

When i give 'er some revs in neutral the engine stutters for a second or two till the revs build up.

I have gone round tightening everything i can think of.

I have found a small (20mm) long open section where the zorst guy hasnt welded the resonator up properly. Also, when i rev i think i can hear a whistling sound from the AFM which is located just after the FMIC and prior to Greddy plenum.

Question is....which one or both?

Any ideas

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245410-exhaust-or-afm/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well exhaust you should weld up either way.

It does potentially sound AFM related, but the AFM 'should' play up all the time. Not just in neutral with a little free-rev...

It should misbehave off load/underload/intermittent for both etc until it gets worse and worse (thats how mine failed)

Could also be TPS perhaps not working correctly IMO... more likely TPS than AFM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245410-exhaust-or-afm/#findComment-4269215
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...