Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I recently had the dash of my 34 GTR pulled apart to fix a leaking heater core. The issue is rectified, the dash is back together, but now the factory display (where it shows temps, revs, boost etc) is displaying only oil temp, and the water temp line is flashing red and displaying 130 degrees.

According to the Power FC everything is as it should be... Does the computer need a reset, or...?

Has anyone else experienced this before, or know what to do?

Thanks

Bec

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250060-help/
Share on other sites

Hi all

I recently had the dash of my 34 GTR pulled apart to fix a leaking heater core. The issue is rectified, the dash is back together, but now the factory display (where it shows temps, revs, boost etc) is displaying only oil temp, and the water temp line is flashing red and displaying 130 degrees.

According to the Power FC everything is as it should be... Does the computer need a reset, or...?

Has anyone else experienced this before, or know what to do?

Thanks

Bec

YEP !!! only mine is a GTT R34 with jap sat nav but if you unplug the wiring or remove the battery it comes up as PIT with a wrench on the screen , and needs a reset.

I didnt worry about it because its being removed this weekend for another setup. but if I remember right I saw the fix on the UK Skyline clubs site or Nissan should be able to reset the computer for you ?

???? are you certain you bleed the air out of the cooling system it might actually be hot ? you need to turn the heater on full heat to fill the heater core properly when its drained dry ? and recheck it often in the first few days.

it can also be a bad ground in the dash for the unit or a loose/corroded plug on the thermostat wire for the sensor on the dash, it measures resistance to read the temp.

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250060-help/#findComment-4334579
Share on other sites

YEP !!! only mine is a GTT R34 with jap sat nav but if you unplug the wiring or remove the battery it comes up as PIT with a wrench on the screen , and needs a reset.

I didnt worry about it because its being removed this weekend for another setup. but if I remember right I saw the fix on the UK Skyline clubs site or Nissan should be able to reset the computer for you ?

???? are you certain you bleed the air out of the cooling system it might actually be hot ? you need to turn the heater on full heat to fill the heater core properly when its drained dry ? and recheck it often in the first few days.

Hey thanks for the response... The system was pressure tested, and the Power FC and normal water temp guage in the dash cluster itself are both telling me the actual water temp of the car is fine...? Hmmmmm... Electrics hey? LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250060-help/#findComment-4334583
Share on other sites

Have you looked at the flashing codes on the ECM yet? before tearing into the dash/engine harness, I would check that out it may point to a sensor failure to narrow it down quicker ? Run the R34 GTR diagnostics , your ECM is prob in the same spot as most nissans, behind the passenger or drivers side kick panel (not positive with GTR R34), side bit with 1 screw holding it a and slides back toward you and might have a plastic nut holding it to the firewall (most are missing that bit) and the trim on the door sill on some cars might need to be popped off and unscrewed to get the panel off if its too tight. some also have a inspection port with a rubber plug covering the blinking LED on the ECM without taking off the panel , check first !!!

pretty sure the ground point for the cluster is in a different spot then the other dash gauges, on a different harness , so its very possible to get two readings,1 good 1 bad from screen?

if the dash was out its prob not grounded properly since it relies on resitance to be right to register the right temps. most of the harness grounds meet up behind the radio , A/C area on the metal bar in front of the heater core on mine, yours should be the same , Nissan keeps things consistant on there cars?

Its pretty suss to have your heater core leak on a R34 ? was the car running just water or mixed coolants to corrode the core so quick?

it could be a corrosion problem on the single wire terminal on the sensor which will be picked up by the flashing ECM LED's ? I know its not the same exactly but my R31 with RB30(same engine breed, same sensor locations for the most part) had that issue with corrosion on the sensor, cut it off and soldered a new connector to it. worked perfect no other issues.

it shouldnt be that hard to find the issue with a few ECM tests and digital volt meter? maybe someone on this site has the ODBC II code reader for the Skyline ? with that you can reset the ECM too ?

good luck hope that helps a bit and yes I'd move the post to the national site per inlines suggestion lots more R34 GTR interstate ?

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250060-help/#findComment-4334900
Share on other sites

Hey mate just came across this up in the UK it has the pin out wiring diagram for the R34 GTR MFD and functions list

http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/...eens-modes.html

since they have a lot more R34 GTR in the UK and lots more members as well it might be better to post up there ?

good luck it might help troubleshooting

5829d1214398299-mfd-screens-modes-mfd-pinout-diagram.jpg

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250060-help/#findComment-4340648
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...