Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, my driver side window and left passenger window decided to die on me. And its plain irritating to open the door to get tickets in carparks. Was wondering if you guys might know where i can get it fix and how much would it cost me??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250632-power-window/
Share on other sites

Did both stop working at the same time? weird for both 2 b not working, if you know how to get the door trim off check to see if the window reg's are getting power! If they are either be the switches or the reg's! If they arent probably a fuse???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250632-power-window/#findComment-4341178
Share on other sites

Its weird that its both, if you check what Paul suggested and still come up empty, open the control unit. Its inside the drivers door. Look at the solder joints. If there are any that look dull, heat them up with a soldering iron so the solder reheats. It could be as simple as dry solder joints. This happened to my R33. Just on the drivers door. After doing this, I had no more problems :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250632-power-window/#findComment-4341257
Share on other sites

thanks for your replies! somehow, the driver windows started working this morning. not sure if its because i had the car under the sun yesterday for a good 10 hours. :( but the passenger is still down. will have a look at it some time soon. hope i know how to... hahah... im hopeless with car electronics.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250632-power-window/#findComment-4341451
Share on other sites

do you hear a clicking or buzzing sound?

This happened in my ex's car Check your fuses, then check your relays. (it wasn't a skyline but I assume auto electric issues aren't too different in each type of car...or maybe I'm wrogn *shrug*)

The motor could also be seizing? WD40 ftw :(

Invest in a multimeter or ask one of the guys to help and have a look if you're unsure!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250632-power-window/#findComment-4341730
Share on other sites

definately try the control unit if the windows just decide when they want to work apparently its a problem with all electric windows using that style of system as they age the solder dries out and the conection can become intermitant

well thats what the autosparky who fixed mine in about 30 seconds told me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250632-power-window/#findComment-4342221
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...