Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently Swapped my K&N Pod filter with a HKS air filter.

When i first installed it, everything seemed to be running fine, but a couple of days later the car started to sound really rough at idle. The rev's dont seem to vary much, but the car now shakes a bit at idle and a kind of farting noise comes from the exhaust. I can't really tell if it's RPM 'hunting' or if its some kind of miss.... any ideas???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25127-air-filter-causing-miss-at-idle/
Share on other sites

cheers, just tried reseting the ecu (the only easy one to do), was stoked cause at first it idled fine, then revs dropped a bit and it started to go rough again. Maby i should take it out right now and thrash the tits of it... yeah ill go do that:)

I've got the same problem. Always have, My afm plug is a little dodgy as once on the dyno when the afm was fitted the ecu went in to limp home mode. + lots of black smoke out the exhaust.

We then swapped afm's and all was fine.

Then pluged mine back in and it was ok.

I've come to accept it.. Bump the idle up to around 850rpm and it is ok.

On the back of your plenum there is a ACC valve. The idle screw is in that. It is nearest your firewall. It also has a plug leaving it and a what looks like 1/2" hose going to it.

Bring the car up to operating temp then adjust it. You have to come at it from in front of your clutch master cyclinder there abouts.

Do a search on the ACC valve I posted a pic quite some time ago now.

Guest RedLineGTR

but if it was working fine with the older filter u shouldnt need to adjust it. Clean the AFM reset the ecu and give it a drive for a little bit see over a couple of days and then try the idle setting adjustment. Why did u get a HKS filter for...they dont filter good at all the only thing they filter is rocks and birds :) But thats your choice so it will give u a feel in the difference when revving but at a cost. Anyways hopefully it works out fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...