Jump to content
SAU Community

engineers certificates

ac1d3o3

By ac1d3o3,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

ac1d3o3 Enthusiast

ac1d3o3

Posted
Posted

Hi people,

im thinking of buying a series 2 skyline, with hi-flow turbo, intercooler, exhust, bov.

i was wondering if i need an engineers certificate for any of these mods for insurance purposes and if so how do i obtain them?

i also wanted to know if anyone knew any good performance workshops so i could get the car inspected as the nrma wouldnt know too much about mods like these.

thanx for your help guys :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25232-engineers-certificates/
Share on other sites
two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

the short answer is no for insurance reasons.

but if you are looking for an engineer, taken from this thread...

"By far the best engineer I've had the pleasure to deal with is a guy by the name of Phil Scott who deals out of Grafton. He visits Sydney on a regular basis and is most helpful (a trait which I found is most lacking among engineers). His number is (02) 6647 7558"

two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

in situations like these you shouldn't take the word of some stranger on a forum so i'd advise you to check with your insurance company to be on the safe side. situations and circumstances can wreak havoc if you know what i mean.

having said that, i don't know of anyone that has had to produce an engineers certificate to get insuance. that's only half of the story though. once you have insurance you want to make sure they will honour it and this is where it gets scetchy and why i don't like to listen to anyone except the insurance company in question. you see, in the case of an accident where the car is written off and they have to pay you out the insurance company will look after their best interests (their money) and try to screw you by proving that your car was not roadworthy due to modifications which were not engineered.

best advice i can give you is call your insurance company (if you don't have one call as many as you can) and ask them if they will pay out in the event of a write off and where you haven't got an engineers cert for certain mods. and be specific be specific be specific. the only person you are cheating when it comes to disclosure is yourself.

goodluck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • Nydt
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By Nydt · Posted

      I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...