Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i really need to kno wats goin on with my gearbox when i drive normal 1, 2, 3 are good but when i change to 4 it crunches when i put it in. but it doesnt do it all the time

help please

Mate i had the same problem when i brought my 32 it was pretty good through all gears but would crunch into 5th, so i drained all the oil an put in redline lightweight shockproof oil, this oil really grabs onto the syncros after about 50 or so k's it came good, box now feels an sounds new nice smooth changes. This was rb20. Not cheap oil but awesome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255147-rb25det-gearbox/#findComment-4405594
Share on other sites

treat it nice. mine was doin it to then one day drivin it nicely 2nd gear went on a holiday to never return :banana:.

i put redline in it and it did help but not enough. and everyone thinks rb25 boxes are unbreakable.

now to rebuilding it. hmmmm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255147-rb25det-gearbox/#findComment-4405743
Share on other sites

Hi Jase,

I have exactly the same problem with mine (r32 GTR). 4th crunches only when I am giving it heavy throttle, but not full thrashing. I have a feeling its from flat changing by the previous owner. My suggestion is when going from third to forth > engage clutch then move to nuetral > release clutch > engage clutch again and then put into fourth. This should take all the load of the box and make a smooth change. Option 2 is to rebuild and to shift a bit slower in future.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255147-rb25det-gearbox/#findComment-4406309
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...