Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey pplz

finally decided to sell my pride and joy s13 silvia

i picked her up as a shell with rego and compliance , unpainted and a few dents and scratches .

so we decided to clean her all up and give her a fresh coat of 2pac oranage/red , and slap a vertex big mouth kit on her .

Engine:

1991 s13 silvia

*ca18det motor with 73k on the clock

* ported and polished head .

*thicker tomei headgasket

*gates racing timing belt .

*tomei expreme exhaust manifold.

*garrett gt2871r .86 rear housing

*x force full 3inch turbo back exhaust system , with blitz canon

* custom cold air intake which runs to the front of the car near the cooler

* saber drift intercooler kit

*saber pod filter

*turbosmart fpr with gage

*440cc larger injectors

*2x after market thermo fans controlled by switch

*2ltr custom made oil catch can full with braided lines

*microtech lt10s stand alone computer

*walbro 500hp fuel pump

*ngk iridium tip spark plugs

*turbosmart megasonic blow off valve

*greddy (grex) 19row oil cooler with braided lines .

*dual stage boost controller

*saber boost gauge

*saber air/fuel ratio gauge

*saber water and oil temp gauge

* exedy heavy duty button clutch with lightened flywheel

*full genuine vertex kit

*flared rear gaurds

*nismo seat covers front and rear

* aluminuim overflow tank

* new vacuum lines

*drift handbreak

*razo electronic turbo timer

* Z tune style aftermarket bonnet

*toms steering wheel

Exhaust:

3 inch xforce turbo back exhaust with blitz canon

Suspension:

*hsd HR coilovers front and rear with camber tops and rebound adjustments

* whiteline front sway bar

*whiteline rear sway bar

*uras pinnapples

* whiteline front strut brace

*whiteline rear strut brace

*kazama castor rods

*steering wheel spacer.

*tierod end spacers 4 extra lock

Wheels:

*apec 17inch

*30mm uras hubcentric spacer

*235/45/17's all round

Stereo Audio / Visual:

* pioneer headunit

* fusion 6inch component speakers x4

* fusion tweeters x4

*clarion 12inch sub x2 boxed in the rear

*clarion monoblock amp

Estimated Power:

206rwkw on 18psi

PRICE $12,500 ono PRICE DROP $11,900ONO

car has been serviced religiously every 3000ks with royal purple

gearbox and diff also serviced every 5000ks with motul oils

PLEASE FORGIVE THE DIRTY INTERIOR PICS .

THE CAR HAS BEEN FRESHLY PAINTED (2pac) AND STILL NEEDS ITS FINAL BUFF CUT AND POLISH TO REALLY MAKE THE PAINT STAND OUT FURTHER

HERES A SHORT WALKAROUND CLIP OF IT http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=26N9IwwyXAo

also lookin a yamaha yzf r1 05 model and above

other swaps considered to

post-59738-1233816385_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233816521_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233816567_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233816809_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233816857_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233816924_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233816988_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817046_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817098_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817154_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817221_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817275_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817343_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817411_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817453_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817524_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817604_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817665_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817727_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233817833_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233819235_thumb.jpg

post-59738-1233819337_thumb.jpg

Edited by arabian_drifter
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255719-price-drop-nissan-silvia-206rwkw/
Share on other sites

ill swap u my 84 ae71 CAna corolla with a locked diff n bucket seat 8 months rego no rust. fresh primer n flared guards, fully sick coustom built drift handbreak pollished alloy. 15x8 simmons. and a surf board.

pretty good deal

ill swap u my 84 ae71 CAna corolla with a locked diff n bucket seat 8 months rego no rust. fresh primer n flared guards, fully sick coustom built drift handbreak pollished alloy. 15x8 simmons. and a surf board.

pretty good deal

yea sounds good

to good to be true

a straight swap would be like robbin you though , thats y im forced to give it a miss

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...