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Item: nissan cefiro a31 fresh rebuilted forged r25 have receipts for abt 5k 550cc injectors garret gt25/40 blitz bov 300zx afm rb25 box an short shift an cusco os clutch setup abt 2.5k 6 months old r33 brake upgrade an 5 stud convertion fully uras bodykit interior has bride bucket seat driver only k's gauge's oil temp oil pressure water temp bar boost gauge dvd player has been ripped out defi infomation computer remapped ecu hks evc boost controller an hks turbo timer heaps more just cant think.

bad things- need new brake pads an steering rack an a good time an tune

motor has only been driven once from mechnics to my house so abt 10kms on motor so still has to be ran in for 1000kms car come's without rego an rwc

PHOTO HERE WILL PUT THEM ON HERE SOON

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....entry1283603402

Location: colac

Website: tis 1

Item Condition: body is pretty got little thing on side skirt

Reason for Selling: broke as got 2 many bills an hate looking at this everyday an i cant drive it

Price and Payment Conditions: just eoi at the moment will swap rather a 4 door but will consider anything wouldnt mind a rota

Extra Info:

Pictures: yea

Contact Details: pm me or call or msg after 4:30 on 0437958298

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  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
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