Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just have a very quick question. Can the factory coil packs from a R33 GTST S1 be used in a GTR of the same year? I ask because the ones in my GTR are stuffed but I still have my old ones from my GTST.

I know that the Splitfire coil packs are the same for both the 26 and 25 of certain year models so I'm just curious if this is the same case for the factory items.

Please advise. I'm thinking that they probably won't be ideal but will get the car from A to B?????

PS - this is just temporary, I hope to get splitfires in the very near future.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258041-r33-gtst-and-gtr-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

I believe so. Series 2 and R34 gtr are the same, so it stands to reason that the S1 and R32/r33 are also the same.

Are your coil packs breaking down and arcing everywhere but in the plug? Try your plug gaps at 0.7mm.

Thanks Vspec, well it won't hurt to try. I've been told that there is a miss under load at high rpm on the dyno. He had a set of Splitfires there and they made it go away so it's been isolated to the coils.

I've been getting the E11 tuned in over the past week and there were some dramas with the turbo....my mechanic was sold a crap one (he bought it on behalf of me through his supplier)....my GT3582 had a ford XR6 cartridge inside with damaged exhaust wheel and other signs that it wasn't brand new, so it's been sent back. It still worked, but who'd want a exhaust wheel that looks like this? (I'll load up photos tomorrow)....and besides, I payed for a NEW turbo not a second hand pieced together one. So, come Tuesday, I should have a "real" GT35 without a old second hand cartridge in it and also, I'll be trying the 0.63 housing while it's apart so stay tuned for that as well.

I guess I'm lucky I didn't sell my spare coils then ;-) See how they go. I wish I didn't sell my Splitfires.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...