Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Sounds like the regulators fuxed. Cheap and easy fix (y)

*shrug* I went home

Doesnt matter. Anything that does ON and OFF. Figure out where and how u want to mount them, and get something to suit

Ok cool. I'll raid some parts bins before the weekend

Awesome :)

No remote start though :P Don't think I can hook it up to it either :(

Yeah cut and solder. Thats what monkey boy is for

Okie dokie!

Not particularly, easy for purchasing though :ninja:

Lol, yeah I meant easy to go and get one

f**king splits! c*nts to install. Get them physically mounted during the week if you can... Then we'll just have to do the electrics on the weekend

They're the ones out of my old Navara... they were easy to install in that. We might be lucky, and the tweeters in the doors might have survived, if not... the tweeter pods are at least already on the doors. The crossovers should be able to fit on the inside of the center console behind the head unit - plenty of room in there.

F**K it, I'm out :ninja:. Naah all good I guess, will just work slower. Shame about the JB but :(

It is a shame :)

I was waiting for a pic of miss molly :(. But hell yes, DO IT!

Oh crap! I'm sorry... that was a terrible let down!

mollyquinn.jpg

302549.jpg

The crossovers should be able to fit on the inside of the center console behind the head unit - plenty of room in there.

That means twice as many wires to the doors :)

Oh crap! I'm sorry... that was a terrible let down!

mollyquinn.jpg

302549.jpg

You're forgiven :ninja:

That means twice as many wires to the doors :ninja:

You're forgiven :ninja:

Not if we tape them together and feed them through in one go :)

Depending on speaker price, I might just get some 6x9s for the front and 7x10s for the rear. I'll see how I go.

Any ideas for amp placement?

Edited by Isola

dash mount, john im better for sunday, i have a large list of jobs to do on saturday, most important of them is do my wheel alignment and gas my aircon in the car. Gotta love having a full air conditioned workshop to play in!

Not if we tape them together and feed them through in one go :D

Depending on speaker price, I might just get some 6x9s for the front and 7x10s for the rear. I'll see how I go.

You'll be better off with the splits, really.

Any ideas for amp placement?

Under a front seat? In boot?

dash mount, john im better for sunday, i have a large list of jobs to do on saturday, most important of them is do my wheel alignment and gas my aircon in the car. Gotta love having a full air conditioned workshop to play in!

/Callvote take johns car to dan's workshop to wire shit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...