Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

I would have thought that would definitely be cause to put an SR in

You're a good friend :P

That's what she said

That's what she said

That's what she said

She talks too much. Shut that bitch up :P

So you feeling anymore love for the GTR yet or you still thinking of selling it?

I will probably still sell it, isnt even back on the road yet and its giving me the shits, but i do miss the sound of it and the acceleration off the line so maybe when i get it back it will convince me. I saw the turbos and dump pipes out on the floor when i was down there yesterday and i nearly jizzed in my pants so that was a good start to it winning me back

I would have thought that would definitely be cause to put an SR in

if only i could

awd is for girls, just run it to rwd with a standard sr box

If that was the aim i would just sell it and pour the money into Annas car! it is already RWD and SR :P

And AWD is f**king awesome 300rwkw in my last r32 was a waste, in the GTR its just enough!

If that was the aim i would just sell it and pour the money into Annas car! it is already RWD and SR :P

And AWD is f**king awesome 300rwkw in my last r32 was a waste, in the GTR its just enough!

hard to argue with that logic!

Why can't you?
awd is for girls, just run it to rwd with a standard sr box

You're a sick f**k you know that right?

If that was the aim i would just sell it and pour the money into Annas car! it is already RWD and SR :P

And AWD is f**king awesome 300rwkw in my last r32 was a waste, in the GTR its just enough!

The logic is strong in this one hrrmmm. For the loss SR20 is hrmmm.

You're a sick f**k you know that right?

Yes :P

For the loss SR20 is hrmmm.

+1

SR20s are cool, just not in GTRs, they belong in s13s and smaller!

and farming equipment!

And on another note driving around collecting parts is exciting, its been years since I trolled the classefieds ect ect

mmm tis fun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...