Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Yeah, just a little, seeing as how the only gauge that's any good without one is a volt meter :P

Mmmmm I know what you mean. I think I'm gonna have to be careful once I land a job to NOT go stupid on little expensive pieces. The only money I'm really prepared to throw at the 32 is a paint job, and an engine transplant (and related items. fuel pumps etc). Apart from that I have to start saving for my 34 once I'm working again!! :)

I have a friend that is a good painter, quite cheap too :P

dw tas will change cars before he decides what gauges to go with :P Odds on what car is next? I'll give 7:1 for a car swap before the skyline is finished :)

My money is on a Civic or FC

DIAGF?

No thank you, I'm fine :P Check with Tristan

I have a friend that is a good painter, quite cheap too :)

O Rly? Does he do taxi sprays? That's all it really needs. There's one panel that's cracked that I just don't care about anymore but hopefully it can be painted over.

Hmmm I need new window seals so it doesn't take on water like a 95-97 model.

window seals check with clark rubber..

as for car swaps.. pfftf..

jsut finished working on engine/body..

just stuck for what turbo setup i want to use (external/internal).. unsure about highmount clearances tbh.. dont want it to fk my awesome bonnet! :)

also lookin for a 13bt suited for rebuild.. so if anyone sees one do let me know please :P

Edited by Redsuns88
O Rly? Does he do taxi sprays? That's all it really needs. There's one panel that's cracked that I just don't care about anymore but hopefully it can be painted over.

Hmmm I need new window seals so it doesn't take on water like a 95-97 model.

He will spray it however you want it, If you want a first class job he will do it, if you want cheap and quick he will still produce a pretty good job in limited time

Yeah, just a little, seeing as how the only gauge that's any good without one is a volt meter :P

Mmmmm I know what you mean. I think I'm gonna have to be careful once I land a job to NOT go stupid on little expensive pieces. The only money I'm really prepared to throw at the 32 is a paint job, and an engine transplant (and related items. fuel pumps etc). Apart from that I have to start saving for my 34 once I'm working again!! :)

mmm 34. Toss up between 34 or M3 as my next car :P

I have a friend that is a good painter, quite cheap too :P

I will probably hit this guy up once I start f**king with the 32. He's the guy on SAUqld right?

My money is on a Civic or FC

No thank you, I'm fine :) Check with Tristan

Good call on that. With a spoon engine or 3? I reckon it will be a chaser or an mx5 :P

O Rly? Does he do taxi sprays? That's all it really needs. There's one panel that's cracked that I just don't care about anymore but hopefully it can be painted over.

Hmmm I need new window seals so it doesn't take on water like a 95-97 model.

93-98

window seals check with clark rubber..

as for car swaps.. pfftf..

jsut finished working on engine/body..

just stuck for what turbo setup i want to use (external/internal).. unsure about highmount clearances tbh.. dont want it to fk my awesome bonnet! :)

also lookin for a 13bt suited for rebuild.. so if anyone sees one do let me know please :P

all 13bs are suited to rebuilds lol :P

mmm 34. Toss up between 34 or M3 as my next car :)

I will probably hit this guy up once I start f**king with the 32. He's the guy on SAUqld right?

I decided my next car the other day...BMW 335, that engine has so much potential. I also thought about a 135 but apparently due to the short wheel base they are really snappy

He was on SAU QLD but then he got too many people asking for show quality jobs for $500, but when you want to contact him let me know and i will arrange it!

just stuck for what turbo setup i want to use (external/internal).. unsure about highmount clearances tbh.. dont want it to fk my awesome bonnet! :)

what engine is in it?

I decided my next car the other day...BMW 335, that engine has so much potential. I also thought about a 135 but apparently due to the short wheel base they are really snappy

He was on SAU QLD but then he got too many people asking for show quality jobs for $500, but when you want to contact him let me know and i will arrange it!

335 is the new twin turbo one yeah? They are pretty sick. We saw one on Coro drive when Martin was dropping me off at the train station. People want everything for nothing these days. flamin mongrels...

sif i got enough money for spoon engines..Frankenstein conversions ftw!

Put a vh45dett in the skyline. You know you want to.

what engine is in it?

25 I think.

He will spray it however you want it, If you want a first class job he will do it, if you want cheap and quick he will still produce a pretty good job in limited time

Sounds good :)

I'll let you know when I have paint job money and get his details :P

335 is the new twin turbo one yeah?

25 I think.

Thats the one! I know a guy who made 245rwkw just by chipping it...nuts, Imagine what it could make with an exhaust, intercooler upgrade, boost up and some form of CAI

If its a RB25 the choice is 3076 .84 and if it a 20 a TD06 20g or a 3071 .63

window seals check with clark rubber..

Do you happen to know product codes?

jsut finished working on engine/body..

just stuck for what turbo setup i want to use (external/internal).. unsure about highmount clearances tbh.. dont want it to fk my awesome bonnet! :P

Front bar fixed now?

mmm 34. Toss up between 34 or M3 as my next car :P

I'll still <3 you if you buy a 34.

I reckon it will be a chaser or an mx5 :)

well he's looking at 13bs, so maybe he's getting ready to buy tight leather pants and start cutting hair

93-98

My year range was safer to confine it to 33s only :P

done ages ago never bothered to pick it up.. lol...

neg just new under body parts..

trying to find those air ducts that 32 33 and i think 34 gtr got... next to the rod ends.. otherwise i will have to fab up some..

the spray painter u guys talking about didnt he do rohans car?

in redcliff or somethign?

Yeah pretty sure it's the same guy.

Thats the one! I know a guy who made 245rwkw just by chipping it...nuts, Imagine what it could make with an exhaust, intercooler upgrade, boost up and some form of CAI

If its a RB25 the goice is 3076 .84 and if it a 20 a TD06 20g or a 3071 .63

Yeah definitely has some potential. They look nuts with some decent wheels on and lowered a bit as well :P

I'll still <3 you if you buy a 34.

:)

well he's looking at 13bs, so maybe he's getting ready to buy tight leather pants and start cutting hair

It's a definite possibilty.

My year range was safer to confine it to 33s only :P

Furry muff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...