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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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did my timing belt late last yr. not too hard in the car, but radiator needs to come out. just make sure you dont mark anything and clean surfaces well before putting it back together and your laughing.......mind you it took me the better part of 2 days and a fair bit of beer :)

its not hard. just time consuming. good lucks

So not true... the timing belt needs to be done just as often on a 26 :P

Yeah but with a GTr you get to do the timing belt every few years while the engine is out getting rebuilt so it is easier :P

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Get the stuff with speed pseudoephedrine in it, it actually works.

Yeah I felt a bit sh*t on friday but came good on the weekend. On one hand good, on the other hand a strayen day would be nice...

I will grab some of that shit this arvo. Strayen days are good. I should probably still be off work but meh.

That's a bit of a let off, for a very leading statement from Colin

That at least deserved a "That's what she said", if not a comment regarding the troubles one can have when having to pay rent whilst being short on funds.

Twas a little disappointing.

Wait I got one:

Not as sore as your sister's is

Martin delivers. Flaming axe to the gooch coming your way good Sir.

Cool cool cool.

Yeah def should head out to bnr. No one takes a skyline there these days anyway...

Callvote John drives all us northies to the German club, and we can chip in to buy his meal :thumbsup:

Charity fundraiser to buy John some sausage?

I could probably drive us there, as long as it's not raining.

Yeah you wouldn't have this problem if you had bought a gtr, the oil pump may have failed and the engine packed it in but hey you'd have a working timing belt.

I'll try help you out in changing it, never done one before so it might be an experience.

Ssshhh my GTR still works. I don't think it knows it's a GTR.

Yeah but with a GTr you get to do the timing belt every few years while the engine is out getting rebuilt so it is easier :P

:pirate:

Ssshhh my GTR still works. I don't think it knows it's a GTR.

I must admit that My GTR since the rebuild has been the least problematic of the performance cars i have owned. The SYL80 was still more fun to fang around in though!

Whilst stealing a car from McFly, I found out the cute receptionist's name :thumbsup:

Cassie ;)

Yeah but with a GTr you get to do the timing belt every few years while the engine is out getting rebuilt so it is easier :P

An excellent point, good sir!

Twas a little disappointing.

That's what she said

Martin delivers.

That's what she said

Flaming axe to the gooch coming your way good Sir.

Looking forward to it.

Charity fundraiser to buy John some sausage?

:thumbsup:

Ssshhh my GTR still works. I don't think it knows it's a GTR.

Probably because you drive it like a skirt. It thinks it's a micra.

Poor old 20 needs a timing belt rather urgently, so i'm trying to limit ks till it's done. Anyone want to help me change it? Then I need to fine my boost/induction leak, and check if my turbo is dying or not.

That's not my car is it? Well maybe not the dying turbo bit...

I was thinking of doing mine myself very soon too (no idea how long ago the current one was done), but CBF paying extra for a workshop to do it (money is tight), If you want help/gofer/looker i'd be there so i can get an idea of what to do.

That's not my car is it? Well maybe not the dying turbo bit...

I was thinking of doing mine myself very soon too (no idea how long ago the current one was done), but CBF paying extra for a workshop to do it (money is tight), If you want help/gofer/looker i'd be there so i can get an idea of what to do.

The belt, bearings, seals, water pump, coolant and a new bolt is only about $800 supplied and fitted.

Poor old 20 needs a timing belt rather urgently, so i'm trying to limit ks till it's done. Anyone want to help me change it? Then I need to fine my boost/induction leak, and check if my turbo is dying or not.

Well since you are in thefixing mood, how about servicing my car as well :rolleyes:

It SOOO needs a good going over. Plus new tyres, cant go around aroundabout with out handfulls of opposite lock.

Our resident troll must be at school today as no replies

Edited by Kiwibob

The belt, bearings, seals, water pump, coolant and a new bolt is only about $800 supplied and fitted.

That include the oil pump seal? How much more does it cost if the oil pump itself needs to be replaced at the same time?

here is a small sample. When I see these pictures I ALMOST forget how much f**king greif it gave me.

Sexy. *APPROVED*

Herro all.

Stupid reports not working this morning.

One of my production database servers shat itself today. Good times :down:

reported to authorities,

resolution expected 2 weeks pinch.gif

Thank you for contacting IT. We aim to please.

Sexy. *APPROVED*

I liked it lots more after i got rid of the bling wheels!

The guy I sold it to wanted the bling wheels, added a billion tonnes of sound gear and de tuned it to 245rwkw because it was 'too fast' :(

The belt, bearings, seals, water pump, coolant and a new bolt is only about $800 supplied and fitted.

really?? where at? i will def send the next person i know that needs it done that direction. mine cost me 400 + in parts from Kudos in the first place. belt (gates), water pump, tensioner, pulley, cam and main seals. no oil pump seal.but if it dont leak dont touch it imo.

was quoted locally, between $1500 and $2000....lol. nooo ty. hence doing it myself. but for $800 i would have contemplated letting someone else do it.

I liked it lots more after i got rid of the bling wheels!

The guy I sold it to wanted the bling wheels, added a billion tonnes of sound gear and de tuned it to 245rwkw because it was 'too fast' :(

transfer of rwkw to hectik soundkillerwasps. thumbsup.gif

Sickness is getting worse. Im thinking about a Day off tomorrow since internet ticks over but I have a job that needs to be done tomorrow and I'm the only tech on site. Rah.

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  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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