Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

2 x Lanzar Optidrive 1232D Subs - Selling - $350ea

- 1100 Watts RMS / 2200Watts Peak

- Tripple Stack Magnets

- Cast Aluminum Frame

- 3" BAEISV Voicecoil

- Butyl Rubber Surround

- 1 Ohm Stable

1 x Lanzar VHC2000 Amplifier - Selling - $500

- 2 x 350 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms

- 2 x 550 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms

- 2 x 800 Watts RMS at 1 Ohms

- 1 x 1100 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

- 1 x 1400 Watts Max at 2 Ohms Bridged

- Electronic Crossover Network, Bass Boost Controls

- Bridgeable at 2 and 4 Ohms 1 Ohm Stereo Stable

- Tri-Mode Capable

- Gold RCA Inputs

- Phase Controls

- Cooling Fan

- Line Outs For Left & Right Channels

- Power & Protection Circuitry Soft Turn On/Off

- Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz S/N Ratio: 105 dB

Stinger Cap - Selling $350ono

- 3 Farad

- 4 Gauge Inputs / Outputs (I Think)

Take it all for $1500

Also have a genuine alpine insulated 2 x 12" ported sub box i will throw in!

If you think my prices are to high or there is another product that will do the same job significantly cheaper then please PM me and see if we can work something out rather then posting shit in the thread stating how incredibly horrible the deal is.. i'm not up to date with audio gear / pricing!

I also have a shit load of one gauge stinger wiring and i think 4 / 8 gauge to. The setup made almost 140db in my holden astra sedan (sealed box and in a boot) and that was a pretty basic setup not really trying for spl. The subs are very responsive and sound great but the whole setup just weights to much to put in this car (as well as me having no boot space..)

When i bought the gear originally, the subs were on special at $850 each, amp was around $1600 and the cap was $700. I'm not saying this is true to current pricing with technology moving forward but thats what i paid a few years ago. The subs / amp / cap have literally seen about 40 - 50 hours use i would say.

Location: Brisbane

Website: Here

Item Condition: V.Good

Reason for Selling: Don't want something this big / heavy for GTR

Price and Payment Conditions: Taking offers of performance gear to suit R34 GTR (Cams / cam gears, suspension and handling gear, oil / intercoolers etc) . Outright cash price is $1500neg.

EDIT - Also willing to trade some gear for a smaller setup to suit the car. EG - Single 12" Sub / Amp package. Must be quality! Like Type R / 500.1 Alpine gear etc or equivalents.

Extra Info: Bought all this gear brand new from Hi-Fi Mart in Toowoomba, had it in my Astra and then R33 GTS-T Skyline. Since i have bought the GTR i have decided i want a smaller / tamer system and a little more boot space.

post-4555-1238048925_thumb.jpg post-4555-1238048986_thumb.jpg post-4555-1238049128_thumb.jpg

post-4555-1238049269_thumb.jpg post-4555-1238049331_thumb.jpg post-4555-1238049438_thumb.jpg

post-4555-1238049652_thumb.jpg post-4555-1238049704_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
    • I started removing the tank a while back with the intent to give it a proper clean. Got to a bolt that I couldn't undo completely due to a diff being in the way, so just said f**k it and siphoned the gluggy old fuel out and called it a day. Looking it the tank it looks less corroded than the one in the pics for that billet hanger from Frenchy's anyway. Isn't it the fuel filters job to worry about this stuff? I scraped off most the crusty shit of the hanger but will give it another go before reinstall coz maybe the fuel and return pipes are also full of gunk  
    • Pretty sure it is a common fault. I believe this is the only part you need, but don't quote me as I don't have a V36.  I also believe it is a bit of a pain to change and the device needs to be encoded to the car once it is replaced, so may need someone with the right tools. Buy Genuine Nissan 48700JF00D (48700-JF00D) Lock Set-Steering. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
×
×
  • Create New...